Shampoo ndi chinthu chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito tsiku ndi tsiku ndi anthu kuchotsa dothi pakhungu ndi tsitsi ndikusunga khungu ndi tsitsi kukhala loyera. Zosakaniza zazikulu za shampu ndi ma surfactants (omwe amatchedwa ma surfactants), ma thickeners, ma conditioner, ma preservatives, ndi zina zotero. Chofunika kwambiri ndi ma surfactants. Ntchito za ma surfactants sizimangophatikizapo kuyeretsa, kutulutsa thovu, kuwongolera khalidwe la rheological, komanso kufatsa kwa khungu, komanso kuchita gawo lofunika kwambiri pa cationic flocculation. Chifukwa cationic polymer imatha kuyikidwa pa tsitsi, njirayi imagwirizana kwambiri ndi ntchito ya pamwamba, ndipo ntchito ya pamwamba imathandizanso kuyika zinthu zina zothandiza (monga silicone emulsion, anti-dandruff actives). Kusintha dongosolo la surfactant kapena kusintha milingo ya electrolyte nthawi zonse kumayambitsa zotsatira za conditioning polymer mu shampu.
1. Ntchito ya tebulo la SLES
SLS ili ndi mphamvu yabwino yonyowetsa khungu, imatha kupanga thovu lolemera, ndipo imakonda kupanga thovu lowala. Komabe, imagwirizana kwambiri ndi mapuloteni ndipo imakwiyitsa khungu kwambiri, kotero siigwiritsidwa ntchito kawirikawiri ngati ntchito yayikulu pamwamba. Chosakaniza chachikulu chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito pakali pano mu shampoos ndi SLES. Mphamvu ya SLES pakhungu ndi tsitsi ndi yotsika poyerekeza ndi ya SLS yofanana. Zogulitsa za SLES zomwe zimakhala ndi ethoxylation yapamwamba sizidzakhala ndi mphamvu yonyowetsa khungu. Kuphatikiza apo, thovu la SLES Lili ndi kukhazikika bwino komanso kukana madzi olimba. Khungu, makamaka nembanemba ya mucous, limalekerera kwambiri SLES kuposa SLS. Sodium laureth sulfate ndi ammonium laureth sulfate ndi zinthu ziwiri zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri pa SLES pamsika. Kafukufuku wa Long Zhike ndi ena adapeza kuti laureth sulfate amine ili ndi kukhuthala kwakukulu kwa thovu, kukhazikika bwino kwa thovu, kuchuluka kwa thovu pang'ono, detergent yabwino, komanso tsitsi lofewa mutatsuka, koma laureth sulfate ammonium salt Ammonium gasi imasungunuka pansi pa mikhalidwe ya alkaline, kotero sodium laureth sulfate, yomwe imafuna pH yochulukirapo, imagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri, komanso imakwiyitsa kwambiri kuposa ammonium salts. Chiwerengero cha mayunitsi a SLES ethoxy nthawi zambiri chimakhala pakati pa mayunitsi 1 ndi 5. Kuwonjezeredwa kwa magulu a ethoxy kudzachepetsa kuchuluka kwa micelle (CMC) ya sulfate surfactants. Kuchepa kwakukulu kwa CMC kumachitika mutawonjezera gulu limodzi lokha la ethoxy, pomwe mutawonjezera magulu awiri mpaka anayi a ethoxy, kuchepako kumakhala kochepa kwambiri. Pamene mayunitsi a ethoxy akuwonjezeka, kugwirizana kwa AES ndi khungu kumakula, ndipo palibe kukwiya kwa khungu komwe kumawonedwa mu SLES yokhala ndi mayunitsi pafupifupi 10 a ethoxy. Komabe, kuyambitsidwa kwa magulu a ethoxy kumawonjezera kusungunuka kwa surfactant, komwe kumalepheretsa kupanga ma viscosity, kotero kulinganiza kuyenera kupezeka. Ma shampu ambiri ogulitsa amagwiritsa ntchito SLES okhala ndi mayunitsi a ethoxy 1 mpaka 3.
Mwachidule, SLES ndi yotsika mtengo kwambiri popanga shampoo. Sikuti imangokhala ndi thovu lolemera, imakana madzi olimba, imakhuthala mosavuta, komanso imasungunuka mwachangu, kotero ikadali surfactant yodziwika bwino mu shampoo zomwe zilipo.
2. Zopangira ma amino acid
M'zaka zaposachedwa, chifukwa SLES ili ndi dioxane, ogula agwiritsa ntchito njira zofewa zochitira zinthu monga amino acid surfactant systems, alkyl glycoside surfactant systems, ndi zina zotero.
Ma surfactants a amino acid amagawidwa makamaka mu acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, ndi zina zotero.
2.1 Acyl glutamate
Acyl glutamates amagawidwa m'mitundu iwiri: mchere wa monosodium ndi mchere wa disodium. Madzi a mchere wa monosodium ndi acidic, ndipo madzi a mchere wa disodium ndi alkaline. Dongosolo la acyl glutamate surfactant lili ndi mphamvu yoyenera yotulutsa thovu, kunyowetsa ndi kutsuka, komanso kukana madzi olimba kuposa kapena ofanana ndi SLES. Ndi lotetezeka kwambiri, silingayambitse kuyabwa kwa khungu komanso kukhudzidwa, ndipo lili ndi poizoni wochepa. , kuyabwa kamodzi kokha ku mucosa wa maso ndi kofatsa, ndipo kuyabwa kwa khungu lovulala (mass fraction 5%) kuli pafupi ndi kwa madzi. Acyl glutamate yodziwika bwino ndi disodium cocoyl glutamate. . Disodium cocoyl glutamate imapangidwa kuchokera ku coconut acid yachilengedwe yotetezeka kwambiri ndi glutamic acid pambuyo pa acyl chloride. Li Qiang et al. adapeza mu "Research on the Use of Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate in Silicone-Free Shampoos" kuti kuwonjezera disodium cocoyl glutamate ku dongosolo la SLES kungathandize kukonza mphamvu ya thovu la dongosolo ndikuchepetsa zizindikiro zofanana ndi SLES. Kuyabwa kwa shampoo. Pamene dilution factor inali nthawi 10, nthawi 20, nthawi 30, ndi nthawi 50, disodium cocoyl glutamate sinakhudze liwiro la flocculation ndi mphamvu ya dongosolo. Pamene dilution factor ili nthawi 70 kapena nthawi 100, flocculation effect imakhala yabwino, koma kukhuthala kumakhala kovuta kwambiri. Chifukwa chake n'chakuti pali magulu awiri a carboxyl mu molekyulu ya disodium cocoyl glutamate, ndipo gulu la hydrophilic head limalowetsedwa pamalo olumikizirana. Malo akuluakulu amachititsa kuti pakhale gawo laling'ono lofunika kwambiri lopakira, ndipo surfactant imasonkhana mosavuta kukhala mawonekedwe ozungulira, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kupanga micelles ngati nyongolotsi, zomwe zimapangitsa kuti zikhale zovuta kukhuthala.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosinate
N-acyl sarcosinate imakhala ndi mphamvu yonyowetsa kuyambira pa asidi wochepa mpaka wochepa, imakhala ndi mphamvu yotulutsa thovu komanso yokhazikika, ndipo imalekerera kwambiri madzi olimba ndi ma electrolyte. Yodziwika bwino kwambiri ndi sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate imakhala ndi mphamvu yabwino yoyeretsera. Ndi amino acid-type anionic surfactant yopangidwa kuchokera ku magwero achilengedwe a lauric acid ndi sodium sarcosinate kudzera mu njira ya phthalization, condensation, acidification ndi mchere. Kagwiridwe ka ntchito ka sodium lauroyl sarcosinate pankhani ya kagwiridwe ka ntchito ka thovu, kuchuluka kwa thovu ndi kagwiridwe ka ntchito ka defoaming kuli pafupi ndi ka sodium laureth sulfate. Komabe, mu shampu yomwe ili ndi cationic polymer yomweyo, ma flocculation curves a awiriwa amakhala ndi kusiyana koonekeratu. Mu gawo la thovu ndi kupukuta, shampu ya amino acid system imakhala ndi kutsetsereka kochepa kuposa sulfate system; Mu gawo lotsuka, sikuti kutsetsereka kwa kutsuka kumakhala kotsika pang'ono, komanso liwiro la kutsuka kwa shampoo ya amino acid ndi lotsika kuposa la shampoo ya sulfate. Wang Kuan ndi anzake adapeza kuti dongosolo la compound la sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ndi nonionic, anionic ndi zwitterionic surfactants. Mwa kusintha magawo monga mlingo wa surfactant ndi chiŵerengero, zidapezeka kuti pamakina a binary compound, kuchuluka kochepa kwa alkyl glycosides kumatha kukulitsa synergistic; pomwe mumakina a ternary compound, chiŵerengerocho chimakhudza kwambiri kukhuthala kwa dongosolo, pakati pawo kuphatikiza kwa sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine ndi alkyl glycosides kumatha kupanga zotsatira zabwino zodzikulitsa. Machitidwe a Amino acid surfactant amatha kuphunzira kuchokera ku mtundu uwu wa njira yokhuthala.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Kapangidwe kake ka N-methylacyl taurate ndi kofanana ndi ka sodium alkyl sulfate yokhala ndi unyolo wofanana. Ilinso ndi kapangidwe kabwino ka thovu ndipo simakhudzidwa mosavuta ndi pH ndi kuuma kwa madzi. Ili ndi kapangidwe kabwino ka thovu m'malo ofooka acidic, ngakhale m'madzi olimba, kotero imagwiritsidwa ntchito mosiyanasiyana kuposa alkyl sulfates, ndipo siikwiya kwambiri pakhungu kuposa N-sodium lauroyl glutamate ndi sodium lauryl phosphate. Pafupi ndi, yotsika kwambiri kuposa SLES, ndi surfactant yocheperako komanso yofatsa. Yoyimira bwino ndi sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate imapangidwa ndi kusungunuka kwa mafuta acids opangidwa mwachilengedwe ndi sodium methyl taurate. Ndi amino acid surfactant yodziwika bwino yokhala ndi thovu lolemera komanso kukhazikika kwa thovu labwino. Simakhudzidwa kwenikweni ndi pH ndi madzi. Mphamvu ya kuuma. Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ili ndi mphamvu yolimba yogwirizana ndi amphoteric surfactants, makamaka betaine-type amphoteric surfactants. Zheng Xiaomei ndi ena mu “Kafukufuku Wokhudza Kugwiritsa Ntchito Ma Surfactants Anayi a Amino Acid mu Shampoos” adayang'ana kwambiri pa sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ndi sodium lauroyl aspartate. Kafukufuku woyerekeza adachitika pa momwe ntchito imagwiritsidwira ntchito mu shampoo. Pogwiritsa ntchito sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) ngati chitsanzo, momwe thovu limagwirira ntchito, mphamvu yoyeretsa, mphamvu yokhuthala komanso momwe flocculation imagwirira ntchito zidakambidwa. Kudzera mu zoyeserera, zidatsimikizika kuti momwe thovu limagwirira ntchito ya sodium cocoyl alanine ndi sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ndi zabwino pang'ono kuposa za SLES; mphamvu yoyeretsa ya ma surfactants anayi a amino acid ilibe kusiyana kwakukulu, ndipo onse ndi abwino pang'ono kuposa SLES; momwe makulidwe amagwirira ntchito nthawi zambiri amakhala otsika kuposa SLES. Powonjezera chokhuthala kuti chisinthe kukhuthala kwa dongosolo, kukhuthala kwa dongosolo la sodium cocoyl alanine kumatha kuwonjezeka kufika pa 1500 Pa·s, pomwe kukhuthala kwa machitidwe ena atatu a amino acid kukadali kotsika kuposa 1000 Pa·s. Ma curve a flocculation a ma amino acid surfactants anayi ndi ofewa kuposa a SLES, zomwe zikusonyeza kuti amino acid shampu imatuluka pang'onopang'ono, pomwe sulfate system imatuluka mofulumira pang'ono. Mwachidule, mukakulitsa formula ya amino acid shampu, mutha kuganizira zowonjezera ma nonionic surfactants kuti muwonjezere kuchuluka kwa micelle kuti muwonjezere kukhuthala. Muthanso kuwonjezera ma polymer thickeners monga PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Kuphatikiza apo, , kuphatikiza ma cationic conditioners oyenera kuti muwongolere kuphana ndi vuto la mtundu uwu wa mankhwala.
3. Ma surfactants a nonionic alkyl glycoside
Kuwonjezera pa ma amino acid surfactants, ma nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) akope chidwi chachikulu m'zaka zaposachedwa chifukwa cha kukwiya kwawo kochepa, kusamala chilengedwe, komanso kugwirizana bwino ndi khungu. Kuphatikiza ndi ma surfactants monga fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (SLES), ma non-ionic APG amachepetsa kukana kwa magulu a anionic a SLES, motero amapanga ma micelles akuluakulu okhala ndi kapangidwe kofanana ndi ndodo. Ma micelles oterewa salowa kwambiri pakhungu. Izi zimachepetsa kuyanjana ndi mapuloteni a khungu ndi kukwiya komwe kumachitika. Fu Yanling et al. adapeza kuti SLES idagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati anionic surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine ndi sodium lauroamphoacetate zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati ma zwitterionic surfactants, ndipo decyl glucoside ndi cocoyl glucoside zidagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati ma nonionic surfactants. Zothandizira, pambuyo poyesa, ma anionic surfactants ali ndi mphamvu zabwino kwambiri zotulutsa thovu, kutsatiridwa ndi zwitterionic surfactants, ndipo ma APG ali ndi mphamvu zoyipa kwambiri zotulutsa thovu; Ma shampoo okhala ndi ma anionic surfactants monga zinthu zazikulu zomwe zimagwira ntchito pamwamba amakhala ndi flocculation yodziwikiratu, pomwe ma zwitterionic surfactants ndi ma APG ali ndi mphamvu zoyipa kwambiri zotulutsa thovu. Palibe flocculation yomwe idachitika; pankhani ya kutsuka ndi kunyowa tsitsi, dongosolo kuyambira labwino kwambiri mpaka loipa kwambiri ndi: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, pomwe tsitsi louma, mphamvu zophimba za ma shampoo okhala ndi ma anions ndi zwitterions monga main surfactants ndizofanana. , shampoo yokhala ndi ma APGs monga main surfactant ili ndi mphamvu zoyipa kwambiri zophimba; mayeso a chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane akuwonetsa kuti shampoo yokhala ndi ma APGs monga main surfactant ndi yofatsa kwambiri, pomwe shampoo yokhala ndi ma anions ndi zwitterions monga main surfactants ndi yofatsa kwambiri. Ma APGs ali ndi CMC yochepa ndipo ndi sopo wothandiza kwambiri pakhungu ndi mafuta a sebum. Chifukwa chake, ma APGs amagwira ntchito ngati main surfactant ndipo nthawi zambiri amapangitsa tsitsi kumva ngati lachotsedwa komanso louma. Ngakhale kuti ndi ofewa pakhungu, amathanso kutulutsa mafuta ndikuwonjezera kuuma kwa khungu. Chifukwa chake, mukamagwiritsa ntchito ma APG ngati chinthu chachikulu chopangira mafuta, muyenera kuganizira momwe amachotsera mafuta a pakhungu. Zodzoladzola zoyenera zitha kuwonjezeredwa ku fomula kuti mupewe dandruff. Pakuuma, wolembayo amaonanso kuti ingagwiritsidwe ntchito ngati shampu yowongolera mafuta, kuti igwiritsidwe ntchito kokha.
Mwachidule, dongosolo lalikulu la ntchito ya pamwamba pa shampoo likulamulidwabe ndi ntchito ya anionic pamwamba, yomwe imagawidwa m'magulu awiri akuluakulu. Choyamba, SLES imaphatikizidwa ndi zwitterionic surfactants kapena non-ionic surfactants kuti ichepetse kukwiya kwake. Dongosolo la formula ili ndi thovu lolemera, losavuta kukhuthala, ndipo limasinthasintha mwachangu ma cationic ndi silicone oil conditioners komanso mtengo wotsika, kotero ikadali dongosolo lodziwika bwino la surfactant pamsika. Chachiwiri, mchere wa amino acid wa anionic umaphatikizidwa ndi zwitterionic surfactants kuti uwonjezere ntchito ya thovu, komwe ndi malo otchuka pamsika. Mtundu uwu wa formula ndi wofatsa ndipo uli ndi thovu lolemera. Komabe, chifukwa amino acid salt system formula imasuntha pang'onopang'ono, tsitsi la mtundu uwu wa mankhwala ndi louma pang'onopang'ono. . Non-ionic APGs akhala njira yatsopano pakupanga shampoo chifukwa chogwirizana bwino ndi khungu. Vuto pakupanga mtundu uwu wa formula ndikupeza ma surfactants ogwira ntchito bwino kuti awonjezere thovu lake, ndikuwonjezera zonyowetsa zoyenera kuti muchepetse mphamvu ya ma APG pamutu. Malo ouma.
Nthawi yotumizira: Disembala-21-2023