Shampoo ni ikintu gikoreshwa mu buzima bwa buri munsi bw'abantu kugira ngo bakure umwanda ku mutwe no ku musatsi kandi bakomeze kugira isuku ku mutwe no ku musatsi. Ibintu by'ingenzi bigize shampoo ni surfactants (zitwa surfactants), thickeners, conditioners, preservatives, nibindi. Ikintu cy'ingenzi ni surfactants. Imimaro ya surfactants ntabwo irimo gusukura gusa, gusuka ifuro, kugenzura imyitwarire ya rheological, no koroshya uruhu, ahubwo inagira uruhare runini mu gukurura cationic. Kubera ko cationic polymer ishobora gushyirwa ku musatsi, iyi gahunda ifitanye isano rya hafi n'imikorere y'ubuso, kandi imikorere y'ubuso nayo ifasha gushyira ibindi bintu by'ingirakamaro (nk'imiyoboro ya silicone, anti-dandruff actives). Guhindura sisitemu ya surfactant cyangwa guhindura urugero rwa electrolyte bizahora bitera uruhererekane rw'ingaruka za polymer muri shampoo.
1. Ibikorwa bya SLES ku meza
SLS ifite ubushobozi bwiza bwo kongerera ubushyuhe, ishobora gukora ifuro ryinshi, kandi ikunda gukora ifuro ry'urumuri. Ariko, ikorana cyane na poroteyine kandi irababaza uruhu cyane, bityo ntikunze gukoreshwa nk'igikorwa cy'ingenzi cyo hejuru. Ikintu cy'ingenzi kigaragara muri shampoos ni SLES. Ingaruka za SLES ku ruhu no ku musatsi zigaragara ko ziri hasi ugereranyije n'iza SLS. Ibicuruzwa bya SLES bifite urugero rwo hejuru rwa etoxylation mu by'ukuri nta ngaruka za SLES zigira ku buryo bworoshye. Byongeye kandi, ifuro rya SLES Rifite ubushobozi bwo gutuza no kurwanya amazi akomeye. Uruhu, cyane cyane ururenda rw'umukara, rwihanganira SLES cyane kurusha SLS. Sodium laureth sulfate na ammonium laureth sulfate ni byo bintu bibiri bikoreshwa cyane muri SLES ku isoko. Ubushakashatsi bwakozwe na Long Zhike n'abandi bwagaragaje ko laureth sulfate amine ifite ubushyuhe bwinshi bw'ifuro, ifuro rihamye, ingano iri hagati y'ifuro, isuku nziza, n'umusatsi woroshye nyuma yo gukaraba, ariko laureth sulfate ammonium salt Gaz ya Ammonia izavangwa mu gihe cy'imiterere ya alkaline, bityo sodium laureth sulfate, ikenera pH yagutse, ikoreshwa cyane, ariko inatera ubushyuhe kurusha ammonium salts. Umubare w'ibice bya SLES ethoxy units akenshi uba hagati ya unit 1 na 5. Kongeramo amatsinda ya ethoxy bizagabanya icyerekezo cya micelle (CMC) cy'ibice bya sulfate. Igabanuka rikomeye rya CMC riba nyuma yo kongeramo itsinda rimwe gusa rya ethoxy, mu gihe nyuma yo kongeramo amatsinda 2 kugeza kuri 4 ya ethoxy, igabanuka riba riri hasi cyane. Uko unit za ethoxy ziyongera, uburinganire bwa AES n'uruhu burarushaho kuba bwiza, kandi hafi ya hose hagaragara ubushyuhe bw'uruhu muri SLES irimo unit zigera ku 10 za ethoxy. Ariko, kwinjiza amatsinda ya ethoxy byongera ubushobozi bwo gushonga bwa surfactant, ibi bikaba bibangamira iyubakwa ry'ubushyuhe, bityo hagomba kuboneka uburinganire. Shampoo nyinshi zicuruzwa zikoresha SLES irimo impuzandengo ya 1 kugeza kuri 3 ethoxy units.
Muri make, SLES ihendutse mu miterere ya shampoo. Ntabwo ifite ifuro ryinshi gusa, irwanya cyane amazi akomeye, yoroshye kuyibyimba, kandi ifite cationic flocculation yihuta, bityo ikaba ikiri surfactant ikoreshwa cyane muri shampoo zigezweho.
2. Ibikoresho bigabanya aside amine
Mu myaka ya vuba aha, kubera ko SLES irimo dioksani, abaguzi bagiye bakoresha sisitemu zoroshye zo gukora surfactant, nka sisitemu zo gukora surfactant zikomoka kuri aside amine, sisitemu zo gukora surfactant zikomoka kuri alkyl glycoside, nibindi.
Amino acid surfactants zigabanyijemo acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, n'ibindi.
2.1 Acyl glutamate
Acyl glutamate zigabanyijemo umunyu wa monosodium n'umunyu wa disodium. Umuti w'amazi wa monosodium urimo aside, naho umuti w'amazi wa disodium urimo alkaline. Sisitemu ya acyl glutamate surfactant ifite ubushobozi bwo gusohora ifuro, gutose no gukaraba neza, kandi ifite ubushobozi bwo kwirinda amazi akomeye kurusha cyangwa asa na SLES. Ni nziza cyane, ntabwo itera umujinya mwinshi w'uruhu no kumva, kandi ifite uburozi buke bwo mu maso. , umujinya wigeze kugaragara ku mucosa w'amaso ni muto, kandi umujinya ku ruhu rwakomeretse (igisubizo cya 5%) ni hafi y'amazi. Acyl glutamate igaragara cyane ni disodium cocoyl glutamate. . Disodium cocoyl glutamate ikorwa muri aside karemano y'ikoko na aside glutamic nyuma ya acyl chloride. Li Qiang n'abandi basanze mu "Ubushakashatsi ku ikoreshwa rya Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate muri Shampoos zidafite Silicone" ko kongeramo disodium cocoyl glutamate muri sisitemu ya SLES bishobora kunoza ubushobozi bwo gusohora ifuro ry'isi no kugabanya ibimenyetso nk'ibya SLES. Kurakara kwa shampoo. Iyo dilution factor yari inshuro 10, 20, 30, na 50, disodium cocoyl glutamate ntabwo yagize ingaruka ku muvuduko wa flocculation n'ubukana bwa sisitemu. Iyo dilution factor ari inshuro 70 cyangwa 100, ingaruka za flocculation ziba nziza, ariko ubwinshi burushaho kugorana. Impamvu ni uko hari amatsinda abiri ya carboxyl muri disodium cocoyl glutamate molecule, kandi itsinda ry'umutwe wa hydrophilic rifatwa aho uhurira. Agace kanini gatanga parameter ntoya yo gupakira, kandi surfactant yishyira hamwe mu buryo bw'uruziga, bigatuma bigorana gukora micelles nk'inzoka, bigatuma bigorana kubyimba.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosinate
N-acyl sarcosinate igira ingaruka zo kunyagirwa mu bwoko bwa aside nkeya kugeza kuri aside nkeya, ifite ingaruka zikomeye zo gufuro no gutuza, kandi ihangana cyane n'amazi akomeye na electrolytes. Ifite uruhare runini ni sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ifite ingaruka nziza zo gusukura. Ni aside anionic surfactant yo mu bwoko bwa aside amino ikozwe mu masoko karemano ya aside lauric na sodium sarcosinate binyuze mu buryo bw'intambwe enye zo kugabanya, gushonga, aside no gukora umunyu. Imikorere ya sodium lauroyl sarcosinate mu bijyanye n'imikorere yo gufuro, ingano y'ifuro n'imikorere yo gusohora irangana n'iya sodium laureth sulfate. Ariko, muri sisitemu ya shampoo irimo polymer imwe ya cationic, itandukaniro ririho. Mu cyiciro cyo gufuro no gusuka, shampoo ya aside amino ifite uburyo bwo gusuka buto kurusha sisitemu ya sulfate; Mu cyiciro cyo gusohora amazi, si ukunyerera gusa mu gusohora amazi gusa, ahubwo n'umuvuduko wo gusohora amazi mu ...
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Imiterere y’umubiri n’imiti ya N-methylacyl taurate isa n’iya sodium alkyl sulfate ifite uburebure bumwe bw’urunigi. Ifite kandi ubushobozi bwiza bwo gusohora ifuro kandi ntiyoroshye kwibasirwa na pH n’ubukana bw’amazi. Ifite ubushobozi bwiza bwo gusohora ifuro mu rugero ruke rw’aside, ndetse no mu mazi akomeye, bityo ifite uburyo bwinshi bwo kuyikoresha kurusha alkyl sulfates, kandi ntirakaza uruhu cyane nka N-sodium lauroyl glutamate na sodium lauryl phosphate. Hafi cyane ya SLES, ni surfactant idakakaza cyane kandi yoroheje. Igaragara cyane ni sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ikorwa no guhuzwa kwa aside fatty karemano na sodium methyl taurate. Ni surfactant isanzwe ya amino acid ifite ifuro ryinshi kandi ihamye neza. Muri rusange ntabwo igerwaho na pH n’amazi. Ingaruka z’ubukana. Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate ifite ingaruka zo gukurura hamwe na surfactants za amphoteric, cyane cyane amphoteric surfactants zo mu bwoko bwa betaine. Zheng Xiaomei n'abandi. muri “Ubushakashatsi ku mikorere y’ibinyabutabire bine bya aside amine mu ruhu” byibanze kuri sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, na sodium lauroyl aspartate. Hakozwe inyigo igereranya ku mikorere y’ibinyabutabire muri shampoo. Hafashwe inyigo igereranya ku mikorere y’ibinyabutabire muri shampoo. Hafashwe inyigo igereranya ku mikorere y’ibinyabutabire muri shampoo. Hafashwe inyigo igereranya ku mikorere y’ibinyabutabire muri shampoo, ubushobozi bwo gusukura, ubushobozi bwo gukurura no gukora flocculation byaganiriweho. Binyuze mu igerageza, byaje kugaragara ko imikorere y’ibinyabutabire bya sodium cocoyl alanine na sodium lauroyl sarcosinate irushije gato ugereranyije n’iya SLES; ubushobozi bwo gusukura ibinyabutabire bine bya aside amine nta tandukaniro ririho, kandi byose ni byiza gato ugereranyije na SLES; imikorere yo gukurura muri rusange iri hasi ugereranyije na SLES. Hamwe no kongeramo imashini igabanya ubukana bw’ibinyabutabire kugira ngo ihindure ubukana bw’ibinyabutabire, ubukana bw’ibinyabutabire bya sodium cocoyl alanine bushobora kongerwaho Pa·s 1500, mu gihe ubukana bw’izindi aside amine eshatu bukiri hasi ugereranyije na Pa·s 1000. Imiterere y'ibice bine bya aside amine iraryoshye kurusha iya SLES, bigaragaza ko shampoo ya aside amine igenda buhoro, mu gihe sisitemu ya sulfate igenda vuba gato. Muri make, iyo ubyibushye formula ya aside amine, ushobora gutekereza kongeramo ibice bitari ionic kugira ngo wongere urugero rwa micelle mu rwego rwo kubyibuha. Ushobora kandi kongeramo ibice binini bya polymer nka PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Byongeye kandi, kongeramo ibinyabutabire bya cationic bikwiye kugira ngo byongere ubushobozi bwo gushwanyagurika biracyari ingorabahizi muri ubwo bwoko bw'imiti.
3. Ibikoresho bidafite alkyl glycoside bidafite ionic
Uretse aside amine surfactants, nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) zakunzwe cyane mu myaka ya vuba aha bitewe nuko zidashyuha cyane, ko zibungabunga ibidukikije, kandi zihura neza n'uruhu. Zihujwe n'aside surfactants nka fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (SLES), non-ionic APGs zigabanya imbaraga za anionic groups za SLES, bityo zigakora micelles nini zifite imiterere isa n'iy'inkoni. Bene izi micelles ntizikunze kwinjira mu ruhu. Ibi bigabanya imikoranire na poroteyine z'uruhu ndetse n'ubushyuhe buvamo. Fu Yanling n'abandi basanze SLES yakoreshejwe nk'aside surfactant ya anionic, cocamidopropyl betaine na sodium lauroamphoacetate byakoreshejwe nk'aside surfactants ya zwitterionic, naho decyl glucoside na cocoyl glucoside byakoreshejwe nk'aside surfactants ya nonionic. Ibintu bikora, nyuma yo gupima, anionic surfactants zifite imiterere myiza yo gusohora ifuro, hagakurikiraho zwitterionic surfactants, naho APG zifite imiterere mibi yo gusohora ifuro; Shampoo zifite anionic surfactants nk'ibintu by'ingenzi bikora ku buso bifite imiterere igaragara yo gushonga, mu gihe zwitterionic surfactants na APG zifite imiterere mibi cyane yo gushonga. Nta gushonga kwabayeho; mu bijyanye no koza no gushonga umusatsi, urukurikirane kuva ku byiza kugeza ku bibi ni: APG > anions > zwitterionics, mu gihe mu musatsi wumye, imiterere yo gushonga umusatsi ufite anions na zwitterions nk'ibintu by'ingenzi birangana. , shampoo ifite APGs nk'ikintu cy'ingenzi ifite imiterere mibi cyane yo gushonga; ikizamini cya chorioallantoic membrane y'inkoko kigaragaza ko shampoo ifite APGs nk'ikintu cy'ingenzi ari yo yoroshye cyane, mu gihe shampoo ifite anions na zwitterions nk'ibintu by'ingenzi ari yo yoroshye cyane. APGs zifite CMC nkeya kandi ni isabune nziza cyane ku ruhu na lipide z'amaraso. Kubwibyo, APGs zikora nk'ikintu cy'ingenzi kandi zikunda gutuma umusatsi wumva warakuwe kandi wumye. Nubwo byoroshye ku ruhu, bishobora no gukuramo ibinure no kongera uruhu rwumye. Kubwibyo, iyo ukoresha APG nk'umusemburo w'ingenzi, ugomba gusuzuma uburyo bikuraho ibinure by'uruhu. Ibikoresho byo kwisiga bikwiye bishobora kongerwa muri formula kugira ngo hirindwe uruhu ku ruhu. Ku bw'umwuma, umwanditsi abona ko bishobora gukoreshwa nk'umuti wo kugabanya amavuta, nk'uko byakwifashishwa gusa.
Muri make, urwego rw'ingenzi rw'imikorere y'ubuso muri formula za shampoo ruracyari ruyobowe n'imikorere y'ubuso bwa anionic, igabanyijemo sisitemu ebyiri zikomeye. Ubwa mbere, SLES ihuzwa na zwitterionic surfactants cyangwa surfactants zitari ionic kugira ngo igabanye ubukana bwayo. Ubu buryo bwa formula bufite ifuro ryinshi, bworoshye kubyimba, kandi bufite flocculation yihuta ya cationic na silicone oil conditioners kandi buhendutse, bityo ikaba ikiri sisitemu isanzwe ya surfactant ku isoko. Ubwa kabiri, umunyu wa aside amine amino uhuzwa na zwitterionic surfactants kugira ngo wongere imikorere y'ifuro, ikaba ari ahantu hakomeye mu iterambere ry'isoko. Ubu bwoko bw'ibicuruzwa bya formula ni bworoshye kandi bufite ifuro ryinshi. Ariko, kubera ko formula ya aside amine salt system igenda ihindagurika buhoro buhoro, umusatsi w'ubu bwoko bw'ibicuruzwa uba wumye. . APG zitari ionic zabaye icyerekezo gishya mu iterambere rya shampoo bitewe nuko zihuye neza n'uruhu. Ingorane mu guteza imbere ubu bwoko bwa formula ni ukubona surfactants nziza zo kongera ifuro ryayo, no kongeramo ibinyabutabire bikwiye kugira ngo bigabanye ingaruka za APG ku mutwe. Imiterere y'izuba.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Ukuboza-21-2023