I-shampoo iwumkhiqizo osetshenziswa empilweni yabantu yansuku zonke ukususa ukungcola ekhanda nasezinweleni nokugcina ikhanda nezinwele zihlanzekile. Izithako eziyinhloko ze-shampoo ama-surfactants (abizwa ngokuthi ama-surfactants), ama-thickeners, ama-conditioner, ama-preservatives, njll. Isithako esibaluleke kakhulu ama-surfactants. Imisebenzi yama-surfactants ayihlanganisi nje kuphela ukuhlanza, ukugqwala, ukulawula ukuziphatha kwe-rheological, kanye nobumnene besikhumba, kodwa futhi idlala indima ebalulekile ekuqhumeni kwe-cationic. Ngenxa yokuthi i-cationic polymer ingafakwa ezinweleni, inqubo ihlobene kakhulu nomsebenzi wobuso, futhi umsebenzi wobuso nawo usiza ekufakweni kwezinye izingxenye ezizuzisayo (njenge-silicone emulsion, ama-anti-dandruff actives). Ukushintsha uhlelo lwe-surfactant noma ukushintsha amazinga e-electrolyte kuzohlala kubangela ukusabela kwe-chain yemiphumela ye-conditioning polymer ku-shampoo.
1. Umsebenzi wethebula le-SLES
I-SLS inomphumela omuhle wokuthambisa, ingakhiqiza igwebu elicebile, futhi ivame ukukhiqiza igwebu elikhanyayo. Kodwa-ke, inokuxhumana okunamandla namaprotheni futhi iyacasula kakhulu isikhumba, ngakho ayisetshenziswa kakhulu njengomsebenzi oyinhloko wobuso. Isithako esisebenzayo samanje sama-shampoo yi-SLES. Umphumela wokumuncwa kwe-SLES esikhumbeni nasezinweleni ngokusobala uphansi kunowe-SLS ehambisanayo. Imikhiqizo ye-SLES enezinga eliphakeme le-ethoxylation empeleni ngeke ibe nomphumela wokumuncwa. Ngaphezu kwalokho, igwebu le-SLES Linokuqina okuhle kanye nokumelana okuqinile namanzi aqinile. Isikhumba, ikakhulukazi ulwelwesi lwama-mucous, sibekezelela kakhulu i-SLES kune-SLS. I-Sodium laureth sulfate kanye ne-ammonium laureth sulfate yizona ezimbili ezisetshenziswa kakhulu kuma-surfactants e-SLES emakethe. Ucwaningo lukaLong Zhike nabanye luthole ukuthi i-laureth sulfate amine ine-viscosity ephezulu ye-foam, ukuqina okuhle kwe-foam, ivolumu ephakathi yokugqwala, i-detergent enhle, kanye nezinwele ezithambile ngemva kokuwasha, kodwa i-laureth sulfate ammonium salt Igesi ye-Ammonia izohlukaniswa ngaphansi kwezimo ze-alkaline, ngakho-ke i-sodium laureth sulfate, edinga ububanzi be-pH ebanzi, isetshenziswa kabanzi, kodwa futhi iyacasula kakhulu kune-ammonium salts. Inani lamayunithi e-SLES ethoxy ngokuvamile liphakathi kwamayunithi angu-1 no-5. Ukwengezwa kwamaqembu e-ethoxy kuzonciphisa ukuhlushwa kwe-micelle ebalulekile (i-CMC) yama-sulfate surfactants. Ukwehla okukhulu ku-CMC kwenzeka ngemuva kokwengeza iqembu elilodwa le-ethoxy, kuyilapho ngemva kokwengeza amaqembu e-ethoxy angu-2 kuya kwangu-4, ukwehla kuphansi kakhulu. Njengoba amayunithi e-ethoxy ekhula, ukuhambisana kwe-AES nesikhumba kuyathuthuka, futhi cishe akukho ukucasuka kwesikhumba okubonwayo kuma-SLES aqukethe amayunithi e-ethoxy angaba ngu-10. Kodwa-ke, ukwethulwa kwamaqembu e-ethoxy kwandisa ukuncibilika kwe-surfactant, okuvimbela ukwakheka kwe-viscosity, ngakho-ke kudingeka kutholakale ibhalansi. Ama-shampoo amaningi athengiswayo asebenzisa i-SLES equkethe isilinganiso samayunithi e-ethoxy angu-1 kuya kwangu-3.
Ngamafuphi, i-SLES ishibhile kakhulu ekwakhiweni kwe-shampoo. Ayigcini nje ngokuba ne-foam ecebile, ukumelana okunamandla namanzi aqinile, kulula ukuyijiya, futhi ine-cationic flocculation esheshayo, ngakho-ke iseyi-surfactant eyinhloko kuma-shampoo amanje.
2. Izinto ezibangela ama-amino acid surfactants
Eminyakeni yamuva nje, ngenxa yokuthi i-SLES iqukethe i-dioxane, abathengi baphendukele ezinhlelweni ze-surfactant ezithambile, njengezinhlelo ze-amino acid surfactant, izinhlelo ze-alkyl glycoside surfactant, njll.
Ama-surfactants e-Amino acid ahlukaniswe kakhulu yi-acyl glutamate, i-N-acyl sarcosinate, i-N-methylacyl taurate, njll.
2.1 I-Acyl glutamate
Ama-acyl glutamate ahlukaniswe ngama-monosodium salts kanye nama-disodium salts. Isixazululo samanzi sama-monosodium salts sine-acidic, kanti isixazululo samanzi sama-disodium salts sine-alkaline. Uhlelo lwe-acyl glutamate surfactant lunekhono elifanele lokugwedla, ukumanzisa nokugeza, kanye nokumelana namanzi aqinile okungcono kune-SLES noma okufana ne-SLES. Luphephile kakhulu, ngeke lubangele ukucasuka kwesikhumba okukhulu kanye nokuzwela, futhi lunobuthi obuphansi be-phototoxicity. , ukucasuka okukodwa ku-mucosa yamehlo kuncane, kanti ukucasuka kwesikhumba esilimele (isixazululo esingu-5% wengxenye enkulu) kuseduze nokwamanzi. I-acyl glutamate emele kakhulu yi-disodium cocoyl glutamate. . I-Disodium cocoyl glutamate yenziwe nge-coconut acid yemvelo ephephile kakhulu kanye ne-glutamic acid ngemuva kwe-acyl chloride. ULi Qiang nabanye bathole ku-“Research on the Application of Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate in Silicone-Free Shampoos” ukuthi ukwengeza i-disodium cocoyl glutamate ohlelweni lwe-SLES kungathuthukisa ikhono lokugwedla lesistimu futhi kunciphise izimpawu ezifana ne-SLES. Ukucasuka kwe-shampoo. Lapho i-dilution factor yayiphindwe kayi-10, izikhathi ezingama-20, izikhathi ezingama-30, kanye nezingama-50, i-disodium cocoyl glutamate ayizange ithinte ijubane le-flocculation kanye nokuqina kwesistimu. Lapho i-dilution factor iphindwe kayi-70 noma izikhathi eziyi-100, umphumela we-flocculation ungcono, kodwa ukuqina kunzima kakhulu. Isizathu ukuthi kunezinhlobo ezimbili ze-carboxyl ku-molecule ye-disodium cocoyl glutamate, futhi iqembu lekhanda le-hydrophilic liyabanjwa endaweni ehlanganayo. Indawo enkulu ibangela ipharamitha encane yokupakisha ebalulekile, futhi i-surfactant ihlangana kalula ibe yisimo esiyindilinga, okwenza kube nzima ukwakha ama-micelle afana nezibungu, okwenza kube nzima ukujiya.
2.2 i-N-acyl sarcosinate
I-N-acyl sarcosinate inomphumela wokumanzisa kusukela ebangeni elingathathi hlangothi kuya kwele-acidic ebuthakathaka, inemiphumela enamandla yokugqwala nokuzinzisa, futhi inokubekezelela okuphezulu kwamanzi aqinile nama-electrolyte. Emele kakhulu yi-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. . I-Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate inomphumela omuhle kakhulu wokuhlanza. Iyi-amino acid-type anionic surfactant elungiselelwe emithonjeni yemvelo ye-lauric acid kanye ne-sodium sarcosinate ngokusebenzisa ukusabela kwezinyathelo ezine kwe-phthalization, condensation, acidification kanye nokwakheka kukasawoti. Ukusebenza kwe-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate maqondana nokusebenza kwe-foaming, ivolumu ye-foam kanye nokusebenza kwe-defoaming kuseduze nalokho kwe-sodium laureth sulfate. Kodwa-ke, ohlelweni lwe-shampoo oluqukethe i-cationic polymer efanayo, kukhona ama-flocculation curves alawa amabili. umehluko osobala. Esigabeni sokugqwala nokugqwala, i-amino acid system shampoo inokwehla kokugqwala okuphansi kunesistimu ye-sulfate; esigabeni sokugeza, akukhona nje kuphela ukuthi ukushelela kokuhlanza kuphansi kancane, kodwa futhi nesivinini sokugeza se-amino acid shampoo siphansi kunese-sulfate shampoo. UWang Kuan nabanye bathole ukuthi uhlelo oluhlanganisiwe lwe-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kanye ne-nonionic, anionic kanye ne-zwitterionic surfactants. Ngokushintsha amapharamitha afana nomthamo kanye nesilinganiso se-surfactant, kwatholakala ukuthi ezinhlelweni ze-binary compound, inani elincane le-alkyl glycosides lingafeza ukuqina kwe-synergistic; kuyilapho ezinhlelweni ze-ternary compound, isilinganiso sinomthelela omkhulu ekuqineni kwesistimu, phakathi kwazo inhlanganisela ye-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, i-cocamidopropyl betaine kanye ne-alkyl glycosides ingafeza imiphumela engcono yokuziqinisa. Izinhlelo ze-amino acid surfactant zingafunda kulolu hlobo lwesikimu sokujiya.
2.3 I-N-Methylacyltaurine
Izakhiwo zomzimba nezamakhemikhali ze-N-methylacyl taurate zifana neze-sodium alkyl sulfate enobude obufanayo beketanga. Iphinde ibe nezakhiwo ezinhle zokukhipha amagwebu futhi ayithinteki kalula yi-pH nobunzima bamanzi. Inezici ezinhle zokukhipha amagwebu ebangeni elibuthakathaka le-acid, ngisho nasemanzini aqinile, ngakho-ke inobubanzi bokusetshenziswa obubanzi kune-alkyl sulfates, futhi ayicasuli isikhumba kakhulu kune-N-sodium lauroyl glutamate kanye ne-sodium lauryl phosphate. Eduze, ephansi kakhulu kune-SLES, iyi-surfactant ephansi yokucasuka, emnene. Emele kakhulu yi-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. I-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate yakhiwa ngokujiya kwama-fatty acid atholakala ngokwemvelo kanye ne-sodium methyl taurate. I-amino acid surfactant ejwayelekile ene-foam ecebile kanye nokuqina okuhle kwe-foam. Empeleni ayithinteki yi-pH namanzi. Umphumela wokuqina. I-Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate inomphumela wokuqina ohambisanayo nama-surfactants e-amphoteric, ikakhulukazi ama-surfactants e-amphoteric ohlobo lwe-betaine. UZheng Xiaomei nabanye ku-“Research on the Appreciation Performance of Four Amino Acid Surfactants in Shampoos” bagxile ku-sodium cocoyl glutamate, i-sodium cocoyl alanate, i-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, kanye ne-sodium lauroyl aspartate. Kwenziwe ucwaningo lokuqhathanisa ngokusebenza kokusetshenziswa ku-shampoo. Ukuthatha i-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) njengereferensi, ukusebenza kwe-foam, ikhono lokuhlanza, ukusebenza kokuqina kanye nokusebenza kwe-flocculation kwaxoxwa ngakho. Ngokusebenzisa izivivinyo, kwaphethwa ngokuthi ukusebenza kwe-foam kwe-sodium cocoyl alanine kanye ne-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kungcono kancane kunokwe-SLES; ikhono lokuhlanza lama-amino acid surfactants amane alinawo umehluko omkhulu, futhi konke kungcono kancane kune-SLES; Ukusebenza kokuqina ngokuvamile kuphansi kune-SLES. Ngokufaka i-thickener ukulungisa i-viscosity yesistimu, i-viscosity yesistimu ye-sodium cocoyl alanine ingandiswa ibe yi-1500 Pa·s, kuyilapho i-viscosity yezinye izinhlelo ezintathu ze-amino acid isengaphansi kwe-1000 Pa·s. Ama-flocculation curves ama-amino acid surfactants amane athambile kunalawo e-SLES, okubonisa ukuthi i-amino acid shampoo igeleza kancane, kuyilapho uhlelo lwe-sulfate lugeleza ngokushesha kancane. Ngamafuphi, lapho uqinisa ifomula ye-amino acid shampoo, ungacabanga ngokungeza ama-nonionic surfactants ukwandisa ukuhlushwa kwe-micelle ngenhloso yokuqina. Ungangeza futhi ama-polymer thickeners afana ne-PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Ngaphezu kwalokho, , ukuhlanganisa ama-cationic conditioners afanele ukuthuthukisa ukukwazi ukuxubha kuseyinkinga kulolu hlobo lokwakheka.
3. Ama-surfactant angewona ama-ionic alkyl glycoside
Ngaphezu kwama-amino acid surfactants, ama-nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (ama-APG) adonsele ukunaka okukhulu eminyakeni yamuva ngenxa yokucasuka kwawo okuphansi, ubungane bemvelo, kanye nokuhambisana kahle nesikhumba. Uma ehlanganiswe nama-surfactants afana nama-fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (ama-SLES), ama-non-ionic APG anciphisa ukuxoshwa kwe-electrostatic kwamaqembu e-anionic e-SLES, ngaleyo ndlela akha ama-micelles amakhulu anesakhiwo esifana nenduku. Ama-micelles anjalo awakwazi ukungena esikhumbeni. Lokhu kunciphisa ukusebenzisana namaprotheni esikhumba kanye nokucasuka okubangelwa yiwo. UFu Yanling nabanye bathole ukuthi i-SLES isetshenziswa njenge-anionic surfactant, i-cocamidopropyl betaine kanye ne-sodium lauroamphoacetate kwasetshenziswa njenge-zwitterionic surfactants, kanti i-decyl glucoside kanye ne-cocoyl glucoside kwasetshenziswa njenge-nonionic surfactants. Ama-agent asebenzayo, ngemva kokuhlola, ama-anionic surfactants anezakhiwo ezinhle kakhulu zokukhipha igwebu, kulandele ama-zwitterionic surfactants, kanti ama-APG anezakhiwo ezimbi kakhulu zokukhipha igwebu; Ama-shampoo anama-anionic surfactants njengezinto eziyinhloko ezisebenzayo ebusweni anokufiphaza okusobala, kuyilapho ama-zwitterionic surfactants nama-APG enezakhiwo ezimbi kakhulu zokukhipha igwebu. Akukho ukufiphaza okwenzekile; maqondana nokuhlanza kanye nezakhiwo zokuhlanganisa izinwele ezimanzi, ukuhleleka kusukela kokungcono kakhulu kuya kokubi kakhulu yilokhu: Ama-APG > ama-anion > ama-zwitterionic, kuyilapho ezinweleni ezomile, izakhiwo zokuhlanganisa zama-shampoo anama-anion nama-zwitterion njengezinto eziyinhloko zokususa igwebu zilingana. , i-shampoo enama-APG njenge-surfactant eyinhloko inezakhiwo ezimbi kakhulu zokususa igwebu; ukuhlolwa kwe-chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane kukhombisa ukuthi i-shampoo enama-APG njenge-surfactant eyinhloko iyona elula kakhulu, kuyilapho i-shampoo enama-anion nama-zwitterion njengezinto eziyinhloko zokususa igwebu iyona elula kakhulu. Ama-APG ane-CMC ephansi futhi ayizinsipho ezisebenza kahle kakhulu zesikhumba nama-sebum lipids. Ngakho-ke, ama-APG asebenza njenge-surfactant eyinhloko futhi avame ukwenza izinwele zizizwe zihlutshiwe futhi zomile. Nakuba zithambile esikhumbeni, zingakhipha amafutha futhi zandise ukoma kwesikhumba. Ngakho-ke, uma usebenzisa ama-APG njenge-surfactant eyinhloko, udinga ukucabangela izinga abasusa ngalo amafutha esikhumba. Ama-moisturizer afanele angangezwa efomini ukuvimbela i-dandruff. Ukuze kome, umbhali ucabanga nokuthi ingasetshenziswa njenge-shampoo yokulawula uwoyela, njengereferensi kuphela.
Ngamafuphi, uhlaka oluyinhloko lwamanje lomsebenzi wobuso kumafomula e-shampoo lusabuswa umsebenzi wobuso be-anionic, ohlukaniswe ngokuyisisekelo zibe izinhlelo ezimbili ezinkulu. Okokuqala, i-SLES ihlanganiswe nama-surfactants e-zwitterionic noma ama-surfactants angewona ama-ionic ukunciphisa ukucasuka kwayo. Lolu hlelo lwefomula lune-foam ecebile, kulula ukulijiya, futhi lunokugoqa okusheshayo kwama-conditioner kawoyela we-cationic kanye ne-silicone futhi lubiza kancane, ngakho-ke luseyisistimu ye-surfactant eyinhloko emakethe. Okwesibili, usawoti we-anionic amino acid uhlanganiswa nama-surfactants e-zwitterionic ukwandisa ukusebenza kwe-foam, okuyindawo eshisayo ekuthuthukisweni kwemakethe. Lolu hlobo lomkhiqizo wefomula luthambile futhi lune-foam ecebile. Kodwa-ke, ngoba ifomula yesistimu kasawoti we-amino acid iyagoqa futhi ihlanze kancane, izinwele zalolu hlobo lomkhiqizo zomile. . Ama-APG angewona ama-ionic asephenduke isiqondiso esisha ekuthuthukisweni kwe-shampoo ngenxa yokuhambisana kwawo kahle nesikhumba. Ubunzima bokuthuthukisa lolu hlobo lwefomula ukuthola ama-surfactants asebenza kahle ukwandisa ukuceba kwe-foam yayo, kanye nokwengeza ama-moisturizer afanele ukunciphisa umthelela wama-APG ekhanda. Izimo ezomile.
Isikhathi sokuthunyelwe: Disemba-21-2023