I-shampoo umkhiqizo osetshenziswa ekuphileni kwansuku zonke kwabantu ukususa ukungcola esikhumbeni nasezinweleni futhi ugcine isikhumba sekhanda nezinwele zihlanzekile. Izithako eziyinhloko ze-shampoo zingama-surfactants (okubizwa ngokuthi ama-surfactants), ama-thickeners, ama-conditioner, ama-preservatives, njll. Isithako esibaluleke kakhulu ama-surfactants. Imisebenzi yama-surfactants ayihlanganisi nje ukuhlanza, ukukhihliza amagwebu, ukulawula ukuziphatha kwe-rheological, nobumnene besikhumba, kodwa futhi idlala indima ebalulekile ekugelezeni kwe-cationic. Ngenxa yokuthi i-polymer ye-cationic ingafakwa ezinweleni, inqubo ihlobene eduze nomsebenzi ongaphezulu, futhi umsebenzi ongaphezulu ubuye usize ukufakwa kwezinye izingxenye ezizuzisayo (njenge-silicone emulsion, anti-dandruff actives). Ukushintsha isistimu ye-surfactant noma ukuguqula amazinga e-electrolyte kuyohlale kubangela ukusabela kweketanga kwemiphumela ye-polymer ye-conditioning ku-shampoo.
1.SLES umsebenzi wetafula
I-SLS inomphumela omuhle wokuthambisa, ingakhiqiza igwebu elicebile, futhi ivame ukukhiqiza igwebu elikhanyayo. Kodwa-ke, inokusebenzisana okuqinile namaprotheni futhi iyacasula kakhulu esikhumbeni, ngakho-ke ayivamisile ukusetshenziswa njengomsebenzi wangaphezulu oyinhloko. Isithako esisebenzayo samanje sama-shampoos yi-SLES. Umthelela wokukhangisa we-SLES esikhumbeni nasezinweleni ngokusobala uphansi kunalowo we-SLS ehambisanayo. Imikhiqizo ye-SLES enezinga eliphezulu le-ethoxylation empeleni ngeke ibe nomphumela we-adsorption. Ngaphezu kwalokho, i-foam ye-SLES Inokuqina okuhle nokumelana okuqinile emanzini aqinile. Isikhumba, ikakhulukazi ulwelwesi lwamafinyila, sibekezelela kakhulu i-SLES kune-SLS. I-sodium laureth sulfate ne-ammonium laureth sulfate zingama-SLES asetshenziswa kakhulu emakethe. Ucwaningo olwenziwa u-Long Zhike nabanye bathola ukuthi i-laureth sulfate amine ine-viscosity ephezulu yegwebu, ukuzinza okuhle kwegwebu, ivolumu yegwebu elilinganiselwe, ukuhlanza okuhle, nezinwele ezithambile ngemva kokugeza, kodwa i-laureth sulfate ammonium usawoti I-ammonia igesi izohlukaniswa ngaphansi kwezimo ze-alkali, ngakho-ke i-sodium laureth sulfate esetshenziswa kakhulu, futhi idinga ububanzi obuningi be-pH, futhi idinga ububanzi obuningi be-pH. ammonium usawoti. Inani lamayunithi e-ethoxy e-SLES ngokuvamile liphakathi kwamayunithi angu-1 no-5. Ukwengezwa kwamaqembu e-ethoxy kuzonciphisa i-critical micelle concentration (CMC) yama-surfactants e-sulfate. Ukuncipha okukhulu kwe-CMC kwenzeka ngemva kokwengeza iqembu elilodwa kuphela le-ethoxy, kuyilapho ngemva kokwengeza amaqembu e-ethoxy amabili kuya kwangu-4, ukwehla kuphansi kakhulu. Njengoba amayunithi e-ethoxy anda, ukuhambisana kwe-AES nesikhumba kuyathuthuka, futhi cishe akukho ukucasuka kwesikhumba okubonwa ku-SLES equkethe cishe amayunithi ayi-10 e-ethoxy. Kodwa-ke, ukwethulwa kwamaqembu e-ethoxy kwandisa ukuncibilika kwe-surfactant, okuvimbela ukwakhiwa kwe-viscosity, ngakho-ke kufanele kutholakale ibhalansi. Amashampoos amaningi okuthengisa asebenzisa i-SLES equkethe isilinganiso samayunithi we-ethoxy angu-1 ukuya kwangu-3.
Kafushane, i-SLES ibiza kakhulu ekwakhiweni kweshampu. Ayinayo nje igwebu elicebile, imelana ngokuqinile namanzi aqinile, kulula ukujiya, futhi ine-cationic flocculation esheshayo, ngakho-ke iseyi-surfactant evamile kuma-shampoos amanje.
2. Ama-amino acid surfactants
Eminyakeni yamuva nje, ngenxa yokuthi i-SLES iqukethe i-dioxane, abathengi baphendukele kumasistimu e-surfactant athambile, njengamasistimu we-amino acid surfactant, amasistimu we-alkyl glycoside surfactant, njll.
Ama-amino acid surfactants ikakhulukazi ahlukaniswe abe acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, njll.
2.1 I-Acyl glutamate
I-Acyl glutamates ihlukaniswe yaba usawoti we-monosodium nosawoti we-disodium. Isixazululo esinamanzi sikasawoti we-monosodium sine-asidi, futhi isisombululo esinamanzi sosawoti we-disodium sine-alkali. I-acyl glutamate surfactant system inekhono elifanele lokukhihliza amagwebu, izindawo zokumanzisa nezokugeza, nokumelana namanzi aqinile angcono noma afana ne-SLES. Iphephe kakhulu, ngeke ibangele ukucasuka okukhulu kwesikhumba nokuzwela, futhi ine-phototoxicity ephansi. , ukucasuka okukodwa kwe-eye mucosa kulula, futhi ukucasuka kwesikhumba esilimele (isixazululo se-mass 5%) siseduze namanzi. I-acyl glutamate emele kakhulu i-disodium cocoyl glutamate. . I-disodium cocoyl glutamate yenziwe nge-asidi yemvelo kakhukhunathi ephephe kakhulu kanye ne-glutamic acid ngemva kwe-acyl chloride. U-Li Qiang et al. kutholwe "Ocwaningweni Lokusetshenziswa Kwe-Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Kuma-Shampoos Angenayo I-Silicone" ukuthi ukwengeza i-disodium cocoyl glutamate ohlelweni lwe-SLES kungathuthukisa ikhono lokugwebu lesistimu futhi kunciphise izimpawu ezifana ne-SLES. Ukucasuka kwe-shampoo. Lapho i-dilution factor yayiyizikhathi eziyi-10, izikhathi ezingama-20, izikhathi ezingama-30, kanye nezikhathi ezingama-50, i-disodium cocoyl glutamate ayizange ithinte isivinini se-flocculation kanye nokuqina kohlelo. Uma i-dilution factor iphindwe izikhathi ezingu-70 noma izikhathi ezingu-100, umphumela we-flocculation ungcono, kodwa ukuqina kunzima kakhulu. Isizathu siwukuthi kunamaqembu amabili e-carboxyl ku-molecule ye-disodium cocoyl glutamate, futhi iqembu lekhanda le-hydrophilic liyabanjwa kusixhumi esibonakalayo. Indawo enkulu iphumela kupharamitha yokupakisha encane ebucayi, futhi i-surfactant ihlangana kalula ibe yindilinga, okwenza kube nzima ukwakha ama-micelles afana nezikelemu, okwenza kube nzima ukujiya.
2.2 I-N-acyl sarcosinate
I-N-acyl sarcosinate inomthelela wokumanzisa ebangeni le-acidic engathathi hlangothi ukuya kobuthakathaka, inemiphumela eqinile yokukhihliza amagwebu nokusimamisa, futhi inokubekezelela okuphezulu kwamanzi aqinile nama-electrolyte. Omele kakhulu yi-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. . I-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate inomphumela omuhle kakhulu wokuhlanza. Kuyi-amino acid yohlobo lwe-anionic surfactant elungiselelwe kusuka emithonjeni yemvelo ye-lauric acid ne-sodium sarcosinate ngokusabela okuyizinyathelo ezine ze-phthalization, condensation, acidification kanye nokwakheka kukasawoti. umenzeli. Ukusebenza kwe-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate mayelana nokusebenza kwegwebu, ivolumu yegwebu nokusebenza kwe-defoaming kuseduze nalokho kwe-sodium laureth sulfate. Kodwa-ke, ohlelweni lwe-shampoo oluqukethe i-polymer ye-cationic efanayo, amajika e-flocculation kokubili akhona. umehluko osobala. Esigabeni sokukhihliza namagwebu, i-shampoo yesistimu ye-amino acid inokushelela okuphansi kokuhlikihla kunohlelo lwe-sulfate; esigabeni sokushaywa, akukhona nje kuphela ukushibilika okuguquguqukayo okungaphansi kancane, kodwa futhi ijubane lokugezwa le-shampoo ye-amino acid liphansi kunele shampoo ye-sulfate. Wang Kuan et al. ithole ukuthi uhlelo oluyinhlanganisela lwe-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kanye nama-nonionic, anionic kanye nama-zwitterionic surfactants. Ngokushintsha imingcele efana ne-surfactant dosage kanye ne-ratio, kwatholakala ukuthi kumasistimu ahlanganisiwe kanambambili, inani elincane le-alkyl glycosides lingafinyelela ukuqina kwe-synergistic; ngenkathi kuma-ternary compound systems, isilinganiso sinomthelela omkhulu ku-viscosity yesistimu, phakathi kwayo Inhlanganisela ye-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, i-cocamidopropyl betaine ne-alkyl glycosides ingafinyelela imiphumela engcono yokuzikhukhumeza. Amasistimu we-amino acid surfactant angafunda kulolu hlobo lwesikimu sokujiya.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Izakhiwo zomzimba namakhemikhali e-N-methylacyl taurate zifana nalezo ze-sodium alkyl sulfate ezinobude obufanayo beketango. Iphinde ibe nezindawo ezinhle zokukhihliza amagwebu futhi ayithinteki kalula nge-pH nobulukhuni bamanzi. Inezindawo ezinhle zokukhihliza amagwebu kuhla lwe-asidi ebuthakathaka, ngisho nasemanzini aqinile, ngakho inohlu olubanzi lokusetshenziswa kune-alkyl sulfate, futhi ayicunuli kancane esikhumbeni kune-N-sodium lauroyl glutamate ne-sodium lauryl phosphate. Iseduze, iphansi kakhulu kune-SLES, iwukucasuka okuphansi, i-surfactant ethambile. Omele kakhulu i-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. I-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate yakhiwa ukufiphala kwama-acids atholakala ngokwemvelo kanye ne-sodium methyl taurate. Kuyi-amino acid surfactant ejwayelekile enegwebu elicebile kanye nokusimama okuhle kwegwebu. Ngokuyisisekelo ayithinteki i-pH namanzi. Ukuqina komphumela. I-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate inomphumela wokujiya we-synergistic ngama-amphoteric surfactants, ikakhulukazi ama-amphoteric surfactants ohlobo lwe-betaine. UZheng Xiaomei et al. kokuthi "Ucwaningo Ngokusebenza Kokusebenza Kwama-Amino Acid Amane Ama-Surfactants E-Shampoos" lugxile ku-sodium cocoyl glutamate, i-sodium cocoyl alanate, i-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ne-sodium lauroyl aspartate. Ucwaningo lokuqhathanisa lwenziwa ekusebenzeni kwesicelo ku-shampoo. Ukuthatha i-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) njengereferensi, ukusebenza kwegwebu, ikhono lokuhlanza, ukusebenza kokuqina nokusebenza kwe-flocculation kwaxoxwa ngakho. Ngokuhlola, kwafinyelelwa esiphethweni sokuthi ukusebenza okunegwebu kwe-sodium cocoyl alanine kanye ne-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kungcono kancane kunokwe-SLES; amandla okuhlanza ama-surfactants amane e-amino acid anomehluko omncane, futhi wonke angcono kancane kune-SLES; ukuqina Ukusebenza ngokuvamile kuphansi kune-SLES. Ngokungeza i-thickener yokulungisa i-viscosity yesistimu, i-viscosity ye-sodium cocoyl alanine system ingakhushulwa ibe yi-1500 Pa·s, kuyilapho i-viscosity yezinye izinhlelo ezintathu ze-amino acid isengaphansi kuka-1000 Pa·s. Amajika e-flocculation ama-surfactants amane e-amino acid athambile kunalawo e-SLES, okubonisa ukuthi i-shampoo ye-amino acid igeleza kancane, kuyilapho uhlelo lwe-sulfate lushesha kancane. Kafushane, lapho ujiya ifomula ye-shampoo ye-amino acid, ungacabanga ukwengeza ama-surfactants angenayo i-nonionic ukuze ukhuphule ukugxila kwe-micelle ngenjongo yokuqina. Ungakwazi futhi ukwengeza ama-polymer thickeners afana ne-PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Ngaphezu kwalokho, , ukuhlanganisa ama-conditioner afanelekile e-cationic ukuze kuthuthukiswe ukuhambisana kusewubunzima kulolu hlobo lokubunjwa.
3. Ama-Nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants
Ngaphezu kwama-amino acid surfactants, ama-nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) adonse ukunaka okusabalele eminyakeni yamuva nje ngenxa yokucasuka kwawo okuphansi, ubungane bemvelo, nokuhambisana kahle nesikhumba. Kuhlanganiswe nama-surfactants afana nama-fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (SLES), ama-APG angewona ama-ionic anciphisa ukuphindiselwa kwe-electrostatic kwamaqembu e-anionic we-SLES, ngaleyo ndlela akhe ama-micelles amakhulu anesakhiwo esifana nenduku. Ama-micelles anjalo mancane amathuba okuthi angene esikhunjeni. Lokhu kunciphisa ukusebenzisana namaprotheni esikhumba kanye nokucasuka okuphumela. UFu Yanling et al. ithole ukuthi i-SLES yayisetshenziswa njenge-anionic surfactant, i-cocamidopropyl betaine ne-sodium lauroamphoacetate yasetshenziswa njengama-zwitterionic surfactants, kanye ne-decyl glucoside ne-cocoyl glucoside asetshenziswa njengama-nonionic surfactants. Ama-agent asebenzayo, ngemva kokuhlolwa, ama-anionic surfactants anezakhiwo ezinhle kakhulu zokukhihliza amagwebu, alandelwe ama-surfactants e-zwitterionic, kanti ama-APG anezakhiwo ezimbi kakhulu zokukhihliza amagwebu; ama-shampoos anama-anionic surfactants njengama-ejenti asebenzayo angaphezulu ane-flocculation esobala, kuyilapho ama-zwitterionic surfactants kanye nama-APG anezakhiwo ezimbi kakhulu zokukhihliza amagwebu. Akukho flocculation okwenzekile; mayelana nezakhiwo zokukanywa kwezinwele ezihlanjululwayo nezimanzi, ukuhleleka kokuhle kakhulu kuya kokubi kakhulu yilokhu: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, kuyilapho ezinweleni ezomile, izakhiwo zokuhlanganisa zama-shampoos ane-anion nama-zwitterion njengoba izisetshenziswa eziyinhloko zilingana. , i-shampoo enama-APG njengesisetshenziswa esiyinhloko esinezici zokukama ezimbi kakhulu; ukuhlolwa kolwelwesi lwenkukhu lwe-chorioallantoic kubonisa ukuthi i-shampoo enama-APG njenge-surfactant eyinhloko iyona emnene, kuyilapho i-shampoo enama-anion nama-zwitterion njengama-surfactants ayinhloko imnene kakhulu. impela. Ama-APG ane-CMC ephansi futhi ayizihlanzi ezisebenza kahle kakhulu zesikhumba kanye ne-sebum lipids. Ngakho-ke, ama-APG asebenza njenge-surfactant eyinhloko futhi athambekele ekwenzeni izinwele zizwe zikhunyuliwe futhi zomile. Nakuba zimnene esikhumbeni, zingaphinde zikhiphe ama-lipids futhi zandise ukoma kwesikhumba. Ngakho-ke, uma usebenzisa ama-APG njenge-surfactant eyinhloko, udinga ukucabangela izinga asusa ngalo ama-lipid esikhumba. Ama-moisturizer afanelekile angengezwa kufomula ukuvimbela inkwethu. Ngokoma, umbhali ubheka nokuthi ingasetshenziswa njenge-shampoo yokulawula uwoyela, ukuze kubhekwe kuphela.
Kafushane, uhlaka lwamanje oluyinhloko lomsebenzi ongaphezulu kumafomula e-shampoo lusabuswa umsebenzi we-anionic surface, ohlukaniswe ngokuyisisekelo amasistimu amabili amakhulu. Okokuqala, i-SLES ihlanganiswa nama-zwitterionic surfactants noma ama-non-ionic surfactants ukuze kwehliswe ukucasuka kwayo. Lolu hlelo lwefomula lunogwebu olunothile, kulula ukujiya, futhi lunokugeleza ngokushesha kwezimondisi zikawoyela we-cationic ne-silicone kanye nezindleko eziphansi, ngakho-ke kusewuhlelo lwe-surfactant olujwayelekile emakethe. Okwesibili, usawoti we-anionic amino acid uhlanganiswa nama-zwitterionic surfactants ukwandisa ukusebenza okugcwele amagwebu, okuyindawo eshisayo ekuthuthukisweni kwemakethe. Lolu hlobo lomkhiqizo wefomula luthambile futhi lunogwebu olunothile. Kodwa-ke, ngenxa yokuthi ifomula yesistimu kasawoti ye-amino acid igeleza futhi igeleze kancane, izinwele zalolu hlobo lomkhiqizo zomile. . Ama-APG angewona ama-ionic asephenduke indlela entsha ekuthuthukisweni kweshampu ngenxa yokuhambisana kwawo okuhle nesikhumba. Ubunzima bokwenza lolu hlobo lwefomula ukuthola ama-surfactants asebenza kahle kakhulu ukuze kwandiswe ukunotha kwegwebu layo, kanye nokwengeza okokuthambisa okufanelekile ukuze kudambise umthelela wama-APG ekhanda. Izimo ezomile.
Isikhathi sokuthumela: Dec-21-2023