ʻO ka Shampoo kahi huahana i hoʻohana ʻia i ke ola o kēlā me kēia lā o kānaka e wehe i ka lepo mai ke poʻo a me ka lauoho a mālama i ke poʻo a me ka lauoho i maʻemaʻe. ʻO nā mea nui o ka shampoo he mau surfactants (i kapa ʻia he surfactants), nā mea hoʻomānoanoa, nā conditioners, nā preservatives, a pēlā aku. ʻO ka mea nui loa he mau surfactants. ʻO nā hana o nā surfactants ʻaʻole wale ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe ʻana, ka hoʻopūʻana, ka kaohi ʻana i ke ʻano rheological, a me ka palupalu o ka ʻili, akā ke pāʻani nei hoʻi i kahi kuleana koʻikoʻi i ka flocculation cationic. No ka mea hiki ke waiho ʻia ka polymer cationic ma ka lauoho, pili loa ke kaʻina hana i ka hana o ka ʻili, a kōkua pū ka hana o ka ʻili i ka waiho ʻana o nā mea pono ʻē aʻe (e like me ka silicone emulsion, nā mea hana anti-dandruff). ʻO ka hoʻololi ʻana i ka ʻōnaehana surfactant a i ʻole ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā pae electrolyte e hana mau i kahi hopena kaulahao o nā hopena polymer conditioning i loko o ka shampoo.
1. Hana papaʻaina SLES
He hopena moisturizing maikaʻi ko SLS, hiki ke hana i ka huʻa momona, a ke ʻano nei e hana i ka huʻa flash. Eia nō naʻe, he pilina ikaika kona me nā protein a he mea hoʻonāukiuki loa i ka ʻili, no laila ʻaʻole i hoʻohana pinepine ʻia ma ke ʻano he hana nui ma luna. ʻO ka mea hana nui o nā shampoos i kēia manawa ʻo SLES. ʻOi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka hopena adsorption o SLES ma ka ʻili a me ka lauoho ma mua o ka SLS like. ʻO nā huahana SLES me ke kiʻekiʻe o ka ethoxylation ʻaʻohe hopena adsorption. Eia kekahi, ʻo ka huʻa o SLES He kūpaʻa maikaʻi a me ke kūpaʻa ikaika i ka wai paʻakikī. ʻOi aku ka hoʻomanawanui o ka ʻili, ʻoi aku ka membrane mucous, i ka SLES ma mua o SLS. ʻO ka sodium laureth sulfate a me ka ammonium laureth sulfate nā surfactants SLES ʻelua i hoʻohana nui ʻia ma ka mākeke. Ua ʻike ʻia e ka noiʻi a Long Zhike a me nā poʻe ʻē aʻe he kiʻekiʻe ka mānoanoa o ka laureth sulfate amine, kūpaʻa maikaʻi o ka huʻa, ka nui o ka huʻa kūpono, ka holoi maikaʻi, a me ka lauoho palupalu ma hope o ka holoi ʻana, akā e hoʻokaʻawale ʻia ke kinoea Ammonia paʻakai laureth sulfate ma lalo o nā kūlana alkaline, no laila ʻoi aku ka nui o ka hoʻohana ʻana i ka sodium laureth sulfate, ka mea e pono ai kahi pae pH ākea, akā ʻoi aku ka hoʻonāukiuki ma mua o nā paʻakai ammonium. ʻO ka helu o nā ʻāpana SLES ethoxy ma waena o 1 a me 5 mau ʻāpana. ʻO ka hoʻohui ʻana o nā hui ethoxy e hōʻemi i ka nui o ka micelle koʻikoʻi (CMC) o nā surfactants sulfate. ʻO ka emi nui ʻana o ka CMC ma hope o ka hoʻohui ʻana i hoʻokahi hui ethoxy wale nō, ʻoiai ma hope o ka hoʻohui ʻana i 2 a 4 mau hui ethoxy, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka emi ʻana. I ka piʻi ʻana o nā ʻāpana ethoxy, hoʻomaikaʻi ka hoʻohālikelike ʻana o AES me ka ʻili, a ʻaneʻane ʻaʻohe huhū o ka ʻili i ʻike ʻia ma SLES e loaʻa ana ma kahi o 10 mau ʻāpana ethoxy. Eia nō naʻe, ʻo ka hoʻokomo ʻana o nā hui ethoxy e hoʻonui i ka solubility o ka surfactant, kahi e pale ai i ka kūkulu ʻana o ka viscosity, no laila pono e loaʻa kahi kaulike. Hoʻohana ka nui o nā shampoos kalepa i nā SLES e loaʻa ana ka awelika o 1 a 3 mau ethoxy units.
I ka hōʻuluʻulu manaʻo, he kūpono ke kumukūʻai o ka SLES i nā ʻano shampoo. ʻAʻole wale ia he huʻa momona, kūpaʻa ikaika i ka wai paʻakikī, maʻalahi ke hoʻomānoanoa, a he flocculation cationic wikiwiki, no laila ʻo ia nō ka surfactant maʻamau i nā shampoos o kēia wā.
2. Nā mea hoʻoheheʻe waikawa amino
I nā makahiki i hala iho nei, no ka mea aia ka dioxane i loko o ka SLES, ua huli nā mea kūʻai aku i nā ʻōnaehana surfactant palupalu, e like me nā ʻōnaehana surfactant amino acid, nā ʻōnaehana surfactant alkyl glycoside, a pēlā aku.
Ua māhele nui ʻia nā surfactants amino acid i ka acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, etc.
2.1 ʻAkila glutamate
Ua māhele ʻia nā Acyl glutamates i nā paʻakai monosodium a me nā paʻakai disodium. He waikawa ka hopena wai o nā paʻakai monosodium, a he alkaline ka hopena wai o nā paʻakai disodium. Loaʻa i ka ʻōnaehana surfactant acyl glutamate ka hiki ke hoʻohua kūpono, nā waiwai hoʻomaʻū a holoi, a me ke kūpaʻa wai paʻakikī i ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi ma mua o a like paha me SLES. He palekana loa ia, ʻaʻole e hoʻoulu i ka huhū ʻili a me ka sensitization, a he haʻahaʻa ka phototoxicity. , he akahai ka huhū hoʻokahi manawa i ka mucosa maka, a kokoke ka huhū i ka ʻili i hōʻeha ʻia (ka hapa nui 5% solution) i ka wai. ʻO ka acyl glutamate ʻoi aku ka hōʻike ʻana he disodium cocoyl glutamate. . Hana ʻia ka Disodium cocoyl glutamate mai ka waikawa niu kūlohelohe palekana loa a me ka waikawa glutamic ma hope o ka acyl chloride. Ua ʻike ʻo Li Qiang et al. ma "Research on the Application of Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate in Silicone-Free Shampoos" e hiki i ka hoʻohui ʻana i ka disodium cocoyl glutamate i ka ʻōnaehana SLES ke hoʻomaikaʻi i ka hiki ke hoʻohua o ka ʻōnaehana a hōʻemi i nā hōʻailona like me SLES. Hoʻonāukiuki shampoo. I ka wā he 10 mau manawa, 20 mau manawa, 30 mau manawa, a me 50 mau manawa ka nui o ka dilution factor, ʻaʻole i hoʻopilikia ka disodium cocoyl glutamate i ka wikiwiki a me ka ikaika o ka flocculation o ka ʻōnaehana. Ke 70 mau manawa a i ʻole 100 mau manawa ka nui o ka dilution factor, ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hopena flocculation, akā ʻoi aku ka paʻakikī o ka mānoanoa. ʻO ke kumu, aia ʻelua mau hui carboxyl i loko o ka molekala disodium cocoyl glutamate, a ua hoʻopaʻa ʻia ka hui poʻo hydrophilic ma ka interface. ʻO ka ʻāpana nui ka hopena i kahi palena hoʻopaʻa koʻikoʻi liʻiliʻi, a ua maʻalahi ka surfactant e hōʻuluʻulu i loko o kahi ʻano poepoe, e paʻakikī ai ke hana i nā micelles e like me ka ilo, e paʻakikī ai ke mānoanoa.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosinate
Loaʻa i ka N-acyl sarcosinate kahi hopena pulu i ka pae neutral a i ka nāwaliwali o ka acidic, loaʻa nā hopena hua ikaika a me ka hoʻopaʻa ʻana, a he kiʻekiʻe ke ahonui no ka wai paʻakikī a me nā electrolytes. ʻO ka mea i hōʻike nui ʻia ʻo sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. . Loaʻa i ka sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ka hopena hoʻomaʻemaʻe maikaʻi loa. He surfactant anionic ʻano amino acid ia i hoʻomākaukau ʻia mai nā kumu kūlohelohe o ka lauric acid a me ka sodium sarcosinate ma o kahi hopena ʻehā ʻanuʻu o ka phthalization, condensation, acidification a me ka hoʻokumu ʻana i ka paʻakai. ʻO ka hana o ka sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ma ke ʻano o ka hana hua, ka nui o ka hua a me ka hana defoaming kokoke i ka sodium laureth sulfate. Eia nō naʻe, i loko o ka ʻōnaehana shampoo e loaʻa ana ka polymer cationic like, aia nā piʻo flocculation o nā mea ʻelua. ʻokoʻa maopopo. I ke kahua hua a me ka hamo ʻana, ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka pahee hamo ʻana o ka shampoo ʻōnaehana amino acid ma mua o ka ʻōnaehana sulfate; I ke kahua holoi ʻana, ʻaʻole wale ka pahee o ka holoi ʻana he haʻahaʻa iki, akā ʻo ka wikiwiki o ka holoi ʻana o ka shampoo amino acid he haʻahaʻa ma mua o ka shampoo sulfate. Ua ʻike ʻo Wang Kuan et al. ʻo ka ʻōnaehana hui o ka sodium lauroyl sarcosinate a me nā nonionic, anionic a me zwitterionic surfactants. Ma ka hoʻololi ʻana i nā palena e like me ka dosage surfactant a me ka ratio, ua ʻike ʻia no nā ʻōnaehana hui binary, hiki i kahi liʻiliʻi o nā alkyl glycosides ke hoʻokō i ka thickening synergistic; ʻoiai i loko o nā ʻōnaehana hui ternary, he hopena nui ka ratio i ka viscosity o ka ʻōnaehana, ma waena o ia mea ʻO ka hui pū ʻana o ka sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine a me nā alkyl glycosides hiki ke hoʻokō i nā hopena thickening ponoʻī maikaʻi aʻe. Hiki i nā ʻōnaehana surfactant amino acid ke aʻo mai kēia ʻano hoʻolālā thickening.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Ua like nā ʻano kino a me nā kemika o N-methylacyl taurate me ko ka sodium alkyl sulfate me ka lōʻihi kaulahao like. Loaʻa iā ia nā ʻano hua maikaʻi a ʻaʻole maʻalahi ka hoʻopilikia ʻia e ka pH a me ka paʻakikī o ka wai. Loaʻa iā ia nā ʻano hua maikaʻi i ka pae waikawa nāwaliwali, ʻoiai i ka wai paʻakikī, no laila he ākea ka hoʻohana ʻana ma mua o nā alkyl sulfates, a ʻoi aku ka hoʻonāukiuki i ka ʻili ma mua o N-sodium lauroyl glutamate a me ka sodium lauryl phosphate. Kokoke, haʻahaʻa loa ma mua o SLES, he surfactant haʻahaʻa-hoʻonāukiuki, akahai. ʻO ka mea ʻoi aku ka hōʻike ʻana he sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. Hoʻokumu ʻia ka sodium methyl cocoyl taurate e ka condensation o nā momona momona i loaʻa maoli a me ka sodium methyl taurate. He surfactant amino acid laulā me ka huʻa momona a me ke kūpaʻa huʻa maikaʻi. ʻAʻole ia i hoʻopilikia ʻia e ka pH a me ka wai. Hopena paʻakikī. Loaʻa i ka sodium methyl cocoyl taurate kahi hopena thickening synergistic me nā surfactants amphoteric, ʻoi aku ka betaine-type amphoteric surfactants. Zheng Xiaomei et al. ma "Noiʻi ma ka Hana Hoʻohana o ʻEhā mau Surfactants Amino Acid i loko o nā Shampoos" i kālele ʻia ma ka sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, a me sodium lauroyl aspartate. Ua hana ʻia kahi noiʻi hoʻohālikelike ma ka hana hoʻohana i loko o ka shampoo. Ma ka lawe ʻana i ka sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) ma ke ʻano he kuhikuhi, ua kūkākūkā ʻia ka hana hoʻohua, ka hiki ke hoʻomaʻemaʻe, ka hana mānoanoa a me ka hana flocculation. Ma o nā hoʻokolohua, ua hoʻoholo ʻia ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o ka hana hoʻohua o ka sodium cocoyl alanine a me ka sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ma mua o ka SLES; ʻaʻohe ʻokoʻa o ka hiki ke hoʻomaʻemaʻe o nā surfactants amino acid ʻehā, a ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi o lākou a pau ma mua o SLES; ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka hana hoʻohua ma mua o SLES. Ma ka hoʻohui ʻana i kahi mea hoʻohua e hoʻoponopono i ka viscosity o ka ʻōnaehana, hiki ke hoʻonui ʻia ka viscosity o ka ʻōnaehana sodium cocoyl alanine i 1500 Pa·s, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka haʻahaʻa o ka viscosity o nā ʻōnaehana amino acid ʻekolu ʻē aʻe ma mua o 1000 Pa·s. ʻOi aku ka mālie o nā piʻo flocculation o nā surfactants amino acid ʻehā ma mua o ko SLES, e hōʻike ana e lohi ana ka holoi ʻana o ka shampoo amino acid, ʻoiai ʻoi aku ka wikiwiki o ka holoi ʻana o ka ʻōnaehana sulfate. I ka hōʻuluʻulu manaʻo, i ka wā e hoʻomānoanoa ai i ka formula shampoo amino acid, hiki iā ʻoe ke noʻonoʻo e hoʻohui i nā surfactants nonionic e hoʻonui i ka nui o ka micelle no ke kumu o ka hoʻomānoanoa. Hiki iā ʻoe ke hoʻohui i nā thickeners polymer e like me PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Eia kekahi, , ʻo ka hoʻohui ʻana i nā conditioners cationic kūpono e hoʻomaikaʻi i ka combability he mea paʻakikī nō ia i kēia ʻano formulation.
3. Nā mea hoʻoheheʻe alkyl glycoside nonionic
Ma waho aʻe o nā surfactants amino acid, ua huki nā nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) i ka nānā nui ʻia i nā makahiki i hala iho nei ma muli o ko lākou huhū haʻahaʻa, ka launa maikaʻi o ke kaiapuni, a me ka launa maikaʻi me ka ʻili. I hui pū ʻia me nā surfactants e like me ka momona waiʻona polyether sulfates (SLES), hōʻemi nā non-ionic APGs i ka electrostatic repulsion o nā hui anionic o SLES, a laila e hana ana i nā micelles nui me kahi ʻano koʻokoʻo. ʻAʻole hiki i kēlā mau micelles ke komo i loko o ka ʻili. Hoʻemi kēia i ka launa pū ʻana me nā protein ʻili a me ka huhū hopena. Ua ʻike ʻo Fu Yanling et al. ua hoʻohana ʻia ʻo SLES ma ke ʻano he anionic surfactant, ua hoʻohana ʻia ʻo cocamidopropyl betaine a me sodium lauroamphoacetate ma ke ʻano he zwitterionic surfactants, a ua hoʻohana ʻia ʻo decyl glucoside a me cocoyl glucoside ma ke ʻano he nonionic surfactants. ʻO nā mea hana, ma hope o ka hoʻāʻo ʻana, loaʻa i nā surfactants anionic nā waiwai hua maikaʻi loa, ukali ʻia e nā surfactants zwitterionic, a ʻo nā APGs nā waiwai hua ʻino loa; ʻO nā shampoos me nā surfactants anionic ma ke ʻano he mau mea hana nui ma luna o ka ʻili he flocculation maopopo, ʻoiai ʻo nā surfactants zwitterionic a me nā APGs nā waiwai hua ʻino loa. ʻAʻohe flocculation i hana ʻia; ma ke ʻano o ka holoi ʻana a me nā waiwai hoʻohuihui lauoho pulu, ʻo ke kaʻina mai ka maikaʻi loa a i ka ʻino loa: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, ʻoiai i ka lauoho maloʻo, ua like nā waiwai hoʻohuihui o nā shampoos me nā anions a me zwitterions ma ke ʻano he surfactants nui. , ʻo ka shampoo me nā APGs ma ke ʻano he surfactant nui ka waiwai hoʻohuihui ʻino loa; hōʻike ka hoʻāʻo membrane chorioallantoic embryo moa ʻo ka shampoo me nā APGs ma ke ʻano he surfactant nui ka mea palupalu loa, ʻoiai ʻo ka shampoo me nā anions a me zwitterions ma ke ʻano he surfactants nui ka mea palupalu loa. ʻoiaʻiʻo. He haʻahaʻa ka CMC o nā APGs a he mau mea holoi maikaʻi loa no ka ʻili a me nā lipids sebum. No laila, hana nā APGs ma ke ʻano he surfactant nui a makemake e hoʻolilo i ka lauoho i wehe ʻia a maloʻo. ʻOiai he akahai lākou i ka ʻili, hiki iā lākou ke unuhi i nā lipids a hoʻonui i ka maloʻo o ka ʻili. No laila, i ka hoʻohana ʻana i nā APG ma ke ʻano he surfactant nui, pono ʻoe e noʻonoʻo i ke ʻano o ka wehe ʻana i nā lipids ʻili. Hiki ke hoʻohui ʻia nā moisturizers kūpono i ka formula e pale aku i ka dandruff. No ka maloʻo, manaʻo pū ka mea kākau hiki ke hoʻohana ʻia ma ke ʻano he shampoo kaohi ʻaila, no ka ʻike wale nō.
I ka hōʻuluʻulu manaʻo, ʻo ke ʻano nui o ka hana ʻili i loko o nā ʻano shampoo e noho aliʻi mau ʻia ana e ka hana ʻili anionic, kahi i māhele ʻia i ʻelua mau ʻōnaehana nui. ʻO ka mea mua, ua hui pū ʻia ʻo SLES me nā surfactants zwitterionic a i ʻole nā surfactants non-ionic e hōʻemi i kona huhū. Loaʻa i kēia ʻōnaehana formula ka huʻa momona, maʻalahi ke hoʻomānoanoa, a he flocculation wikiwiki o nā mea hoʻomaʻamaʻa ʻaila cationic a me silicone a me ke kumukūʻai haʻahaʻa, no laila ʻo ia nō ka ʻōnaehana surfactant nui ma ka mākeke. ʻO ka lua, ua hui pū ʻia nā paʻakai amino acid anionic me nā surfactants zwitterionic e hoʻonui i ka hana foaming, kahi wahi wela i ka hoʻomohala ʻana o ka mākeke. He akahai kēia ʻano huahana formula a he huʻa momona. Eia naʻe, no ka mea, ʻo ka formula paʻakai amino acid flocculates a holoi mālie, ua maloʻo ka lauoho o kēia ʻano huahana. . Ua lilo nā APG Non-ionic i kuhikuhi hou i ka hoʻomohala ʻana o ka shampoo ma muli o ko lākou kūlike maikaʻi me ka ʻili. ʻO ka paʻakikī i ka hoʻomohala ʻana i kēia ʻano formula, ʻo ia ka loaʻa ʻana o nā surfactants ʻoi aku ka maikaʻi e hoʻonui i kona waiwai huʻa, a e hoʻohui i nā moisturizers kūpono e hōʻoluʻolu i ka hopena o nā APG ma ke poʻo. Nā kūlana maloʻo.
Ka manawa hoʻouna: Dec-21-2023