Tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog ib yam khoom siv hauv tib neeg lub neej txhua hnub los tshem tawm cov av qias neeg ntawm lub taub hau thiab cov plaub hau thiab ua kom lub taub hau thiab cov plaub hau huv si. Cov khoom xyaw tseem ceeb ntawm tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog surfactants (hu ua surfactants), thickeners, conditioners, preservatives, thiab lwm yam. Cov khoom xyaw tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog surfactants. Cov haujlwm ntawm surfactants suav nrog tsis yog tsuas yog ntxuav, ua npuas dej, tswj kev coj tus cwj pwm rheological, thiab mos ntawm daim tawv nqaij, tab sis kuj ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb hauv cationic flocculation. Vim tias cov cationic polymer tuaj yeem tso rau ntawm cov plaub hau, cov txheej txheem no muaj feem cuam tshuam nrog kev ua haujlwm ntawm qhov chaw, thiab kev ua haujlwm ntawm qhov chaw kuj pab tso cov khoom xyaw zoo (xws li silicone emulsion, anti-dandruff actives). Kev hloov pauv surfactant system lossis hloov cov electrolyte theem yuav ib txwm ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam ntawm cov tshuaj polymer conditioning hauv tshuaj zawv plaub hau.
1.SLES cov haujlwm hauv lub rooj
SLS muaj cov nyhuv zoo rau cov dej noo, tuaj yeem tsim cov npuas nplua nuj, thiab feem ntau tsim cov npuas dej flash. Txawm li cas los xij, nws muaj kev sib cuam tshuam nrog cov protein thiab ua rau khaus tawv nqaij heev, yog li nws tsis tshua siv ua qhov tseem ceeb ntawm qhov chaw. Cov khoom xyaw tseem ceeb tam sim no ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau yog SLES. Cov nyhuv adsorption ntawm SLES rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau yog qhov qis dua li ntawm SLS sib xws. Cov khoom SLES nrog qib siab ntawm ethoxylation yuav tsis muaj cov nyhuv adsorption. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov npuas dej ntawm SLES muaj kev ruaj khov zoo thiab muaj zog tiv taus dej tawv. Daim tawv nqaij, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov mucous membrane, muaj kev tiv taus SLES ntau dua li SLS. Sodium laureth sulfate thiab ammonium laureth sulfate yog ob qho SLES surfactants siv dav tshaj plaws hauv khw. Kev tshawb fawb los ntawm Long Zhike thiab lwm tus pom tias laureth sulfate amine muaj cov ua npuas ncauj ntau dua, ua npuas ncauj ruaj khov zoo, ntim ua npuas ncauj nruab nrab, ntxuav zoo, thiab cov plaub hau mos dua tom qab ntxuav, tab sis laureth sulfate ammonium ntsev Ammonia roj yuav raug dissociated nyob rau hauv alkaline mob, yog li sodium laureth sulfate, uas xav tau ntau pH ntau dua, yog siv dav dua, tab sis nws kuj ua rau khaus ntau dua li ammonium ntsev. Tus lej ntawm SLES ethoxy units feem ntau yog ntawm 1 thiab 5 units. Kev ntxiv ntawm ethoxy pawg yuav txo qhov tseem ceeb micelle concentration (CMC) ntawm sulfate surfactants. Qhov txo qis tshaj plaws hauv CMC tshwm sim tom qab ntxiv tsuas yog ib pawg ethoxy, thaum tom qab ntxiv 2 txog 4 pawg ethoxy, qhov txo qis qis dua. Raws li cov chav ethoxy nce, qhov sib xws ntawm AES nrog daim tawv nqaij zoo dua, thiab yuav luag tsis muaj kev khaus ntawm daim tawv nqaij pom hauv SLES uas muaj li 10 chav ethoxy. Txawm li cas los xij, kev qhia txog ethoxy pawg ua rau muaj kev yaj ntawm surfactant, uas cuam tshuam kev tsim viscosity, yog li yuav tsum nrhiav kev sib npaug. Ntau cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau lag luam siv SLES uas muaj qhov nruab nrab ntawm 1 txog 3 ethoxy units.
Hauv kev xaus lus, SLES yog tus nqi tsim nyog hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau. Nws tsis tsuas yog muaj cov npuas nplua nuj, tiv taus dej tawv, yooj yim ua kom tuab, thiab muaj cov cationic flocculation sai, yog li nws tseem yog cov surfactant tseem ceeb hauv cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau tam sim no.
2. Cov tshuaj amino acid surfactants
Nyob rau xyoo tas los no, vim SLES muaj cov dioxane, cov neeg siv khoom tau tig mus rau cov txheej txheem surfactant uas tsis muaj zog, xws li cov txheej txheem amino acid surfactant, alkyl glycoside surfactant, thiab lwm yam.
Cov amino acid surfactants feem ntau yog muab faib ua acyl glutamate, N-acyl sarcosinate, N-methylacyl taurate, thiab lwm yam.
2.1 Acyl glutamate
Acyl glutamates muab faib ua cov ntsev monosodium thiab cov ntsev disodium. Cov kua dej ntawm cov ntsev monosodium yog acidic, thiab cov kua dej ntawm cov ntsev disodium yog alkaline. Lub kaw lus acyl glutamate surfactant muaj peev xwm ua npuas dej, ua kom noo thiab ntxuav tau, thiab tiv taus dej tawv zoo dua lossis zoo ib yam li SLES. Nws muaj kev nyab xeeb heev, yuav tsis ua rau khaus tawv nqaij thiab ua rau mob, thiab muaj kev lom tshuaj tsawg. , qhov khaus ib zaug rau lub qhov muag mucosa yog qhov tsis hnyav, thiab qhov khaus rau daim tawv nqaij raug mob (feem pua 5% kua) yog ze li ntawm dej. Tus sawv cev ntau dua acyl glutamate yog disodium cocoyl glutamate. . Disodium cocoyl glutamate yog ua los ntawm cov kua txiv maj phaub ntuj thiab glutamic acid tom qab acyl chloride. Li Qiang et al. pom hauv "Kev Tshawb Fawb Txog Kev Siv Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Hauv Cov Tshuaj Txhuam Uas Tsis Muaj Silicone" tias kev ntxiv disodium cocoyl glutamate rau hauv SLES system tuaj yeem txhim kho lub peev xwm ua npuas dej ntawm lub kaw lus thiab txo cov tsos mob zoo li SLES. Kev khaus tshuaj ntxuav plaub hau. Thaum tus yam ntxwv dilution yog 10 npaug, 20 npaug, 30 npaug, thiab 50 npaug, disodium cocoyl glutamate tsis cuam tshuam rau qhov ceev thiab qhov muaj zog ntawm lub cev. Thaum tus yam ntxwv dilution yog 70 npaug lossis 100 npaug, qhov cuam tshuam ntawm flocculation zoo dua, tab sis qhov tuab dua nyuaj dua. Qhov laj thawj yog tias muaj ob pawg carboxyl hauv lub molecule disodium cocoyl glutamate, thiab pawg hydrophilic taub hau raug cuam tshuam ntawm qhov sib txuas. Thaj chaw loj dua ua rau muaj qhov ntsuas ntim me dua, thiab cov surfactant yooj yim sib sau ua ke rau hauv lub voj voog, ua rau nws nyuaj rau tsim cov micelles zoo li kab, ua rau nws nyuaj rau tuab.
2.2 N-acyl sarcosinate
N-acyl sarcosinate muaj cov nyhuv ntub dej hauv qhov nruab nrab mus rau qhov tsis muaj zog acidic, muaj cov nyhuv ua npuas thiab ruaj khov, thiab muaj kev kam rau dej tawv thiab electrolytes. Qhov sawv cev tshaj plaws yog sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. . Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate muaj cov nyhuv ntxuav zoo heev. Nws yog ib qho amino acid-hom anionic surfactant npaj los ntawm cov khoom siv ntuj ntawm lauric acid thiab sodium sarcosinate los ntawm plaub kauj ruam ntawm phthalization, condensation, acidification thiab ntsev tsim. tus neeg sawv cev. Kev ua tau zoo ntawm sodium lauroyl sarcosinate hauv kev ua tau zoo ntawm kev ua npuas, ntim ua npuas thiab kev ua tau zoo ntawm kev ua npuas yog ze rau ntawm sodium laureth sulfate. Txawm li cas los xij, hauv lub kaw lus tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas muaj tib lub cationic polymer, cov kab flocculation ntawm ob qho muaj. Qhov sib txawv pom tseeb. Hauv theem ua npuas thiab txhuam, lub amino acid system tshuaj zawv plaub hau muaj qhov sib txhuam qis dua li lub kaw lus sulfate; Nyob rau theem flushing, tsis yog tsuas yog qhov flushing slipperiness qis dua me ntsis, tab sis kuj qhov ceev flushing ntawm cov amino acid tshuaj zawv plaub hau qis dua li ntawm sulfate tshuaj zawv plaub hau. Wang Kuan et al. pom tias lub cev sib xyaw ntawm sodium lauroyl sarcosinate thiab nonionic, anionic thiab zwitterionic surfactants. Los ntawm kev hloov pauv cov kev cai xws li surfactant dosage thiab piv, nws tau pom tias rau binary compound systems, me me ntawm alkyl glycosides tuaj yeem ua tiav synergistic thickening; thaum nyob rau hauv ternary compound systems, qhov piv muaj kev cuam tshuam loj heev rau viscosity ntawm lub cev, ntawm cov uas Kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, cocamidopropyl betaine thiab alkyl glycosides tuaj yeem ua tiav cov teebmeem zoo dua tus kheej-thickening. Amino acid surfactant systems tuaj yeem kawm los ntawm hom thickening scheme no.
2.3 N-Methylacyltaurine
Cov khoom siv lub cev thiab tshuaj ntawm N-methylacyl taurate zoo ib yam li cov sodium alkyl sulfate nrog tib lub saw ntev. Nws kuj muaj cov khoom ua npuas zoo thiab tsis yooj yim cuam tshuam los ntawm pH thiab dej hardness. Nws muaj cov khoom ua npuas zoo hauv qhov tsis muaj zog acidic, txawm tias nyob hauv dej tawv, yog li nws muaj ntau yam kev siv dua li alkyl sulfates, thiab tsis khaus rau daim tawv nqaij dua li N-sodium lauroyl glutamate thiab sodium lauryl phosphate. Ze rau, qis dua SLES, nws yog qhov tsis khaus, surfactant me me. Tus sawv cev ntau dua yog sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate yog tsim los ntawm kev sib xyaw ntawm cov roj fatty acids thiab sodium methyl taurate. Nws yog cov amino acid surfactant dav dav nrog cov npuas nplua nuj thiab kev ruaj khov zoo. Nws yeej tsis cuam tshuam los ntawm pH thiab dej. Cov nyhuv hardness. Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate muaj cov nyhuv synergistic thickening nrog amphoteric surfactants, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog betaine-hom amphoteric surfactants. Zheng Xiaomei et al. Hauv "Kev Tshawb Fawb Txog Kev Ua Haujlwm ntawm Plaub Yam Amino Acid Surfactants hauv Shampoo" tsom mus rau sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl alanate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, thiab sodium lauroyl aspartate. Ib txoj kev tshawb fawb sib piv tau ua rau kev ua haujlwm ntawm daim ntawv thov hauv shampoo. Siv sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) ua ib qho kev siv, kev ua npuas dej, kev ua kom tuab, thiab kev ua kom flocculation tau tham txog. Los ntawm kev sim, nws tau xaus lus tias kev ua npuas dej ntawm sodium cocoyl alanine thiab sodium lauroyl sarcosinate zoo dua me ntsis ntawm SLES; kev ua kom huv ntawm plaub yam amino acid surfactants muaj qhov sib txawv me ntsis, thiab lawv txhua tus zoo dua me ntsis ntawm SLES; kev ua kom tuab feem ntau qis dua SLES. Los ntawm kev ntxiv cov khoom ua kom tuab los kho qhov viscosity ntawm lub kaw lus, qhov viscosity ntawm sodium cocoyl alanine system tuaj yeem nce mus txog 1500 Pa·s, thaum qhov viscosity ntawm peb lwm yam amino acid systems tseem qis dua 1000 Pa·s. Cov kab flocculation ntawm plaub cov amino acid surfactants yog gentler dua li cov ntawm SLES, qhia tias cov amino acid shampoo flushes qeeb dua, thaum lub sulfate system flushes sai dua me ntsis. Hauv kev xaus, thaum thickening cov amino acid shampoo mis, koj tuaj yeem xav txog kev ntxiv nonionic surfactants kom nce qhov micelle concentration rau lub hom phiaj ntawm thickening. Koj tuaj yeem ntxiv polymer thickeners xws li PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Tsis tas li ntawd, , compounding tsim nyog cationic conditioners los txhim kho combability tseem yog ib qho nyuaj hauv hom formulation no.
3. Cov tshuaj surfactants uas tsis yog ionic alkyl glycoside
Ntxiv rau cov amino acid surfactants, nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (APGs) tau nyiam kev saib xyuas dav dav hauv xyoo tas los no vim lawv tsis khaus, kev phooj ywg ib puag ncig, thiab kev sib raug zoo nrog daim tawv nqaij. Ua ke nrog surfactants xws li fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (SLES), non-ionic APGs txo qhov electrostatic repulsion ntawm anionic pawg ntawm SLES, yog li tsim cov micelles loj nrog cov qauv zoo li pas nrig. Cov micelles no tsis tshua nkag mus rau hauv daim tawv nqaij. Qhov no txo kev sib cuam tshuam nrog cov protein ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab ua rau khaus. Fu Yanling et al. pom tias SLES tau siv ua anionic surfactant, cocamidopropyl betaine thiab sodium lauroamphoacetate tau siv ua zwitterionic surfactants, thiab decyl glucoside thiab cocoyl glucoside tau siv ua nonionic surfactants. Cov neeg sawv cev nquag, tom qab sim, anionic surfactants muaj cov khoom ua npuas zoo tshaj plaws, ua raws li zwitterionic surfactants, thiab APGs muaj cov khoom ua npuas phem tshaj plaws; Cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau uas muaj anionic surfactants ua cov tshuaj tseem ceeb ntawm qhov chaw muaj cov flocculation pom tseeb, thaum zwitterionic surfactants thiab APGs muaj cov khoom ua npuas phem tshaj plaws. Tsis muaj flocculation tshwm sim; hais txog kev yaug thiab ntub cov plaub hau combing zog, qhov kev txiav txim los ntawm qhov zoo tshaj plaws mus rau qhov phem tshaj plaws yog: APGs > anions > zwitterionics, thaum nyob rau hauv cov plaub hau qhuav, cov khoom combing ntawm cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog anions thiab zwitterions ua cov surfactants tseem ceeb yog sib npaug. , cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog APGs ua cov surfactant tseem ceeb muaj cov khoom combing phem tshaj plaws; qhov kev xeem chorioallantoic membrane ntawm qaib embryo qhia tau hais tias cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog APGs ua cov surfactant tseem ceeb yog qhov mos tshaj plaws, thaum cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau nrog anions thiab zwitterions ua cov surfactants tseem ceeb yog qhov mos tshaj plaws. zoo heev. APGs muaj CMC qis thiab yog cov tshuaj ntxuav zoo heev rau daim tawv nqaij thiab sebum lipids. Yog li ntawd, APGs ua haujlwm ua cov surfactant tseem ceeb thiab feem ntau ua rau cov plaub hau xav tias stripped thiab qhuav. Txawm hais tias lawv mos rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, lawv kuj tuaj yeem rho tawm cov roj thiab ua rau daim tawv nqaij qhuav. Yog li ntawd, thaum siv APGs ua lub ntsiab surfactant, koj yuav tsum xav txog qhov uas lawv tshem tawm cov roj ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Cov tshuaj moisturizers tsim nyog tuaj yeem ntxiv rau hauv cov mis kom tiv thaiv dandruff. Rau qhov qhuav, tus sau kuj xav tias nws tuaj yeem siv ua tshuaj zawv plaub hau tswj roj, rau kev siv xwb.
Hauv kev xaus, lub moj khaum tseem ceeb tam sim no ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntawm qhov chaw hauv cov mis tshuaj zawv plaub hau tseem yog anionic kev ua haujlwm ntawm qhov chaw, uas feem ntau muab faib ua ob lub tshuab loj. Ua ntej, SLES yog ua ke nrog zwitterionic surfactants lossis non-ionic surfactants kom txo nws qhov khaus. Lub cev mis no muaj cov npuas nplua nuj, yooj yim rau tuab, thiab muaj kev sib xyaw sai ntawm cov tshuaj cationic thiab silicone roj thiab pheej yig, yog li nws tseem yog lub cev surfactant tseem ceeb hauv kev ua lag luam. Qhov thib ob, cov ntsev anionic amino acid yog ua ke nrog zwitterionic surfactants kom ua rau muaj kev ua npuas ntau ntxiv, uas yog qhov chaw kub hauv kev txhim kho kev ua lag luam. Hom khoom mis no yog mos thiab muaj npuas nplua nuj. Txawm li cas los xij, vim tias cov mis tshuaj amino acid ntsev system flocculates thiab flushes qeeb, cov plaub hau ntawm hom khoom no qhuav heev. . Non-ionic APGs tau dhau los ua ib qho kev taw qhia tshiab hauv kev tsim cov tshuaj zawv plaub hau vim lawv qhov sib xws zoo nrog daim tawv nqaij. Qhov nyuaj hauv kev tsim hom mis no yog nrhiav cov surfactants zoo dua los ua kom nws cov npuas nplua nuj, thiab ntxiv cov tshuaj moisturizers kom txo qhov cuam tshuam ntawm APGs rau ntawm lub taub hau. Cov xwm txheej qhuav.
Lub sijhawm tshaj tawm: Lub Kaum Ob Hlis-21-2023