I-shampoo yimveliso esetyenziswa kubomi bemihla ngemihla babantu ukususa ukungcola entlokweni nasezinweleni kunye nokugcina intloko kunye neenwele zicocekile. Izithako eziphambili ze-shampoo zii-surfactants (ezibizwa ngokuba zii-surfactants), izithambisi, izilungisi, izithinteli, njl. Isithako esibalulekileyo zii-surfactants. Imisebenzi yee-surfactants ayibandakanyi nje kuphela ukucoca, ukufutha, ukulawula ukuziphatha kwe-rheological, kunye nobuthathaka besikhumba, kodwa ikwadlala indima ephambili ekufudumaleni kwe-cationic. Ngenxa yokuba i-cationic polymer inokufakwa ezinweleni, le nkqubo inxulumene kakhulu nomsebenzi womphezulu, kwaye umsebenzi womphezulu ukwanceda ekubekeni ezinye izinto eziluncedo (ezifana ne-silicone emulsion, izinto ezilwa ne-dandruff actives). Ukutshintsha inkqubo ye-surfactant okanye ukutshintsha amanqanaba e-electrolyte kuya kuhlala kubangela ukusabela kwe-chain yeziphumo ze-polymer ze-conditioning kwi-shampoo.
1. Umsebenzi wetafile ye-SLES
I-SLS inefuthe elihle lokufumisa, inokuvelisa igwebu elityebileyo, kwaye idla ngokuvelisa igwebu elikhanyayo. Nangona kunjalo, isebenzisana kakhulu neeproteni kwaye iyacaphukisa kakhulu ulusu, ngoko ayisetyenziswa rhoqo njengomsebenzi ophambili womphezulu. Isithako esisebenzayo sangoku seeshampoos yi-SLES. Isiphumo sokufunxa se-SLES kulusu nakwiinwele ngokucacileyo siphantsi kuneso se-SLS ehambelanayo. Iimveliso ze-SLES ezinezinga eliphezulu le-ethoxylation aziyi kuba nefuthe lokufunxa. Ukongeza, igwebu le-SLES Linozinzo oluhle kunye nokumelana okunamandla namanzi aqinileyo. Ulusu, ngakumbi i-mucous membrane, lunyamezela kakhulu i-SLES kune-SLS. I-Sodium laureth sulfate kunye ne-ammonium laureth sulfate zezona zimbini ze-SLES surfactants ezisetyenziswa kakhulu kwimarike. Uphando olwenziwe nguLong Zhike nabanye lufumanise ukuba i-laureth sulfate amine ine-viscosity ephezulu ye-foam, uzinzo oluhle lwe-foam, umthamo ophakathi we-foam, i-detergent elungileyo, kunye neenwele ezithambileyo emva kokuhlamba, kodwa i-laureth sulfate ammonium salt I-Ammonia gas iya kwahlulwa phantsi kweemeko ze-alkaline, ngoko ke i-sodium laureth sulfate, efuna uluhlu olubanzi lwe-pH, isetyenziswa kakhulu, kodwa ikwacaphukisa ngakumbi kune-ammonium salts. Inani leeyunithi ze-SLES ethoxy lidla ngokuba phakathi kweyunithi e-1 kunye ne-5. Ukongezwa kwamaqela e-ethoxy kuya kunciphisa i-critical micelle concentration (CMC) ye-sulfate surfactants. Ukwehla okukhulu kwi-CMC kwenzeka emva kokongeza iqela elinye le-ethoxy, ngelixa emva kokongeza amaqela ama-2 ukuya kwangama-4 e-ethoxy, ukwehla kuphantsi kakhulu. Njengoko iiyunithi ze-ethoxy zisanda, ukuhambelana kwe-AES nolusu kuyaphucuka, kwaye phantse akukho kurhawuzelelwa kwesikhumba okubonwayo kwi-SLES equlethe malunga neeyunithi ezili-10 ze-ethoxy. Nangona kunjalo, ukungeniswa kwamaqela e-ethoxy kwandisa ukunyibilika kwe-surfactant, okuthintela ukwakhiwa kwe-viscosity, ngoko ke kufuneka kufunyanwe ibhalansi. Iishampoo ezininzi zorhwebo zisebenzisa i-SLES equlethe umyinge we-1 ukuya kwi-3 ethoxy units.
Ngamafutshane, i-SLES ixabisa kancinci kwiifomyula zeshampoo. Ayigcini nje ngokuba ne-foam etyebileyo, ukumelana kakhulu namanzi aqinileyo, kulula ukuyijiya, kwaye ine-cationic flocculation ekhawulezayo, ngoko ke iseseyi-surfactant ephambili kwiishampoos ezikhoyo ngoku.
2. Izinto ezibangela ii-amino acid surfactants
Kwiminyaka yakutshanje, ngenxa yokuba i-SLES ine-dioxane, abathengi baye baphendukela kwiinkqubo ze-surfactant ezithambileyo, ezifana neenkqubo ze-amino acid surfactant, iinkqubo ze-alkyl glycoside surfactant, njl.
Ii-surfactants ze-amino acid zahlulwe ngokubanzi zibe yi-acyl glutamate, i-N-acyl sarcosinate, i-N-methylacyl taurate, njl.
2.1 I-Acyl glutamate
I-acyl glutamates zahlulwe zibe ziityuwa ze-monosodium kunye neetyuwa ze-disodium. Isisombululo samanzi seetyuwa ze-monosodium sine-asidi, kwaye isisombululo samanzi seetyuwa ze-disodium yi-alkaline. Inkqubo ye-acyl glutamate surfactant inamandla afanelekileyo okufutha, ukufuma kunye nokuhlamba, kunye nokumelana namanzi aqinileyo okungcono kune-SLES okanye okufanayo okanye ne-SLES. Ikhuselekile kakhulu, ayizukubangela ukucaphuka okukhulu kwesikhumba kunye novakalelo, kwaye ine-phototoxicity ephantsi. , ukucaphuka kwangoko kwi-mucosa yamehlo kuncinci, kwaye ukucaphuka kwesikhumba esonakeleyo (isisombululo se-mass fraction 5%) kusondele koko kwamanzi. I-acyl glutamate emele ngakumbi yi-disodium cocoyl glutamate. . I-Disodium cocoyl glutamate yenziwe nge-asidi yendalo yekhokhonathi kunye ne-glutamic acid emva kwe-acyl chloride. ULi Qiang et al. bafumene kwi-"Research on the Application of Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate in Silicone-Free Shampoos" ukuba ukongeza i-disodium cocoyl glutamate kwinkqubo ye-SLES kunokuphucula amandla okufutha kwenkqubo kwaye kunciphise iimpawu ezifana ne-SLES. Ukucaphuka kwe-shampoo. Xa i-dilution factor yayiphindwe kalishumi, kamashumi amabini, kamashumi amathathu, nakamashumi amahlanu, i-disodium cocoyl glutamate ayizange iyichaphazele isantya se-flocculation kunye nobunzulu benkqubo. Xa i-dilution factor iphindwe kamashumi asixhenxe okanye kalikhulu, isiphumo se-flocculation singcono, kodwa ukuqina kunzima ngakumbi. Isizathu kukuba kukho amaqela amabini e-carboxyl kwi-disodium cocoyl glutamate molecule, kwaye iqela le-hydrophilic head liyabanjwa kwindawo ehambelanayo. Indawo enkulu ibangela iparameter encinci yokupakisha ebalulekileyo, kwaye i-surfactant ihlangana ngokulula ibe yimo yespherical, okwenza kube nzima ukwenza ii-micelles ezifana neempethu, okwenza kube nzima ukujiya.
2.2 I-N-acyl sarcosinate
I-N-acyl sarcosinate inefuthe lokumanzisa ukusuka kuluhlu olungathathi hlangothi ukuya kolubuthathaka, inefuthe elinamandla lokufutha nokuzinzisa, kwaye inokunyamezela okuphezulu kwamanzi aqinileyo kunye nee-electrolytes. Eyona imele kakhulu yi-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate. . I-Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate inefuthe elihle lokucoca. Yi-amino acid-type anionic surfactant eyenziwe kwimithombo yendalo ye-lauric acid kunye ne-sodium sarcosinate ngokusebenzisa i-reaction yamanyathelo amane ye-phthalization, i-condensation, i-acidification kunye ne-salty formation. Ukusebenza kwe-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate ngokubhekiselele ekusebenzeni kwe-foaming, umthamo we-foam kunye nokusebenza kwe-defoaming kusondele kulowo we-sodium laureth sulfate. Nangona kunjalo, kwinkqubo ye-shampoo equlethe i-cationic polymer efanayo, kukho ii-flocculation curves zala mabini. umahluko ocacileyo. Kwinqanaba le-foaming kunye ne-rubbing, i-amino acid system shampoo ine-rubbing slipperiness ephantsi kunenkqubo ye-sulfate; Kwinqanaba lokuhlanjwa, ayikokuphela nje kokutyibilika kokuhlamba okuphantsi kancinci, kodwa nesantya sokuhlanjwa kweshampu ye-amino acid siphantsi kuneso seshampu ye-sulfate. UWang Kuan nabanye bafumanise ukuba inkqubo ye-compound ye-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kunye ne-nonionic, anionic kunye ne-zwitterionic surfactants. Ngokutshintsha iiparameter ezifana nedosi ye-surfactant kunye nomlinganiselo, kwafunyaniswa ukuba kwiinkqubo ze-binary compound, inani elincinci le-alkyl glycosides linokufezekisa ukuqina kwe-synergistic; ngelixa kwiinkqubo ze-ternary compound, umlinganiselo unempembelelo enkulu kwi-viscosity yenkqubo, phakathi kwazo Ukudibanisa i-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, i-cocamidopropyl betaine kunye ne-alkyl glycosides kunokufezekisa iziphumo ezingcono zokuziqinisa. Iinkqubo ze-amino acid surfactant zinokufunda kolu hlobo lweskimu yokuqina.
2.3 I-N-Methylacyltaurine
Iipropati zomzimba nezekhemikhali ze-N-methylacyl taurate ziyafana nezo ze-sodium alkyl sulfate enobude obufanayo betsheyini. Ikwanazo neepropati ezilungileyo zokufutha kwaye ayichaphazeleki lula yi-pH kunye nobunzima bamanzi. Ineempawu ezilungileyo zokufutha kuluhlu olubuthathaka lwe-asidi, nokuba kumanzi aqinileyo, ngoko ke inoluhlu olubanzi lokusetyenziswa kune-alkyl sulfates, kwaye ayicaphukisi kangako ulusu kune-N-sodium lauroyl glutamate kunye ne-sodium lauryl phosphate. Ikufutshane, iphantsi kakhulu kune-SLES, yi-surfactant enomsindo omncinci. Eyona imele ngakumbi yi-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate. I-sodium methyl cocoyl taurate yenziwa ngokuxinana kwee-asidi zamafutha ezivela ngokwemvelo kunye ne-sodium methyl taurate. Yi-amino acid surfactant ebanzi ene-foam etyebileyo kunye nozinzo oluhle lwe-foam. Ngokusisiseko ayichaphazeleki yi-pH namanzi. Isiphumo sokuqina. I-Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate inesiphumo sokuqina esisebenzisanayo kunye ne-amphoteric surfactants, ngakumbi i-betaine-type amphoteric surfactants. UZheng Xiaomei nabanye. kwi-“Research on the Application Performance of Four Amino Acid Surfactants in Shampoos” egxile kwi-sodium cocoyl glutamate, i-sodium cocoyl alanate, i-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, kunye ne-sodium lauroyl aspartate. Kwenziwe uphando oluthelekisayo malunga nokusebenza kwesicelo kwi-shampoo. Ukuthatha i-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) njengesalathiso, ukusebenza kwe-foam, amandla okucoca, ukusebenza kwe-thickening kunye nokusebenza kwe-flocculation kuxoxwe ngako. Ngezilingo, kwagqitywa kwelokuba ukusebenza kwe-foam ye-sodium cocoyl alanine kunye ne-sodium lauroyl sarcosinate kungcono kancinci kune-SLES; amandla okucoca ama-amino acid surfactants amane akanamahluko mkhulu, kwaye onke angcono kancinci kune-SLES; Ukusebenza kwe-thickening ngokubanzi kuphantsi kune-SLES. Ngokongeza i-thickener ukulungisa i-viscosity yenkqubo, i-viscosity yenkqubo ye-sodium cocoyl alanine inokwandiswa ibe yi-1500 Pa·s, ngelixa i-viscosity yezinye iinkqubo ezintathu ze-amino acid isengaphantsi kune-1000 Pa·s. Ii-flocculation curves ze-amino acid surfactants ezine zithambile kuneze-SLES, nto leyo ebonisa ukuba i-amino acid shampoo ihlanza kancinci, ngelixa inkqubo ye-sulfate ihlanza ngokukhawuleza kancinci. Ngamafutshane, xa uqinisa ifomula ye-amino acid shampoo, ungacinga ngokongeza ii-nonionic surfactants ukwandisa uxinano lwe-micelle ngenjongo yokuqinisa. Ungongeza nezi-polymer thickeners ezifana ne-PEG-120 methylglucose dioleate. Ukongeza, , ukudibanisa izithambisi ezifanelekileyo ze-cationic ukuphucula ukuqhama kusengumngeni kolu hlobo lwefomyula.
3. Ii-surfactants ze-alkyl glycoside ezingezizo i-ionic
Ukongeza kwi-amino acid surfactants, ii-nonionic alkyl glycoside surfactants (ii-APG) ziye zatsala ingqalelo enkulu kwiminyaka yakutshanje ngenxa yokuba azivuthi kakuhle, zinobuhlobo nokusingqongileyo, kwaye zihambelana kakuhle nolusu. Zidibene ne-surfactants ezifana ne-fatty alcohol polyether sulfates (ii-SLES), ii-non-ionic APGs zinciphisa ukugxothwa kwe-electrostatic kwamaqela e-anionic e-SLES, ngaloo ndlela zenze ii-micelles ezinkulu ezinesakhiwo esifana nenduku. Ezi micelles azinakungena lula eluswini. Oku kunciphisa ukusebenzisana neeproteni zesikhumba kunye nokuvuthuluka okubangelwa kuko. UFu Yanling et al. bafumanise ukuba i-SLES isetyenzisiwe njenge-anionic surfactant, i-cocamidopropyl betaine kunye ne-sodium lauroamphoacetate zisetyenzisiwe njenge-zwitterionic surfactants, kwaye i-decyl glucoside kunye ne-cocoyl glucoside zisetyenzisiwe njenge-nonionic surfactants. Ii-arhente ezisebenzayo, emva kovavanyo, ii-anionic surfactants zineempawu ezilungileyo zokukhupha igwebu, zilandelwa yi-zwitterionic surfactants, kwaye ii-APG zineempawu ezimbi zokukhupha igwebu; Iishampoo ezine-anionic surfactants njengezinto eziphambili ezisebenzayo kumphezulu zine-flocculation ecacileyo, ngelixa ii-zwitterionic surfactants kunye nee-APG zineempawu ezimbi kakhulu zokufutha. Akukho flocculation yenzekileyo; ngokweepropati zokuhlamba kunye nokufutha iinwele ezimanzi, ulandelelwano ukusuka kweyona ilungileyo ukuya kweyona imbi yile: ii-APG > ii-anions > ii-zwitterionics, ngelixa kwiinwele ezomileyo, iipropati zokuxuba zeeshampoo ezine-anions kunye nee-zwitterions njengee-surfactants eziphambili ziyafana. , ishampoo ene-APG njenge-surfactant eyintloko ineempawu ezimbi kakhulu zokuxuba; uvavanyo lwe-chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane lubonisa ukuba ishampoo ene-APG njenge-surfactant eyintloko yeyona ilula, ngelixa ishampoo ene-anions kunye nee-zwitterions njengee-surfactants eziyintloko yeyona ilula. Kulungile. Ii-APG zine-CMC ephantsi kwaye zi-detergents ezisebenzayo kakhulu kwi-skin and sebum lipids. Ke ngoko, ii-APG zisebenza njenge-surfactant eyintloko kwaye zithanda ukwenza iinwele zibonakale zihluthwe kwaye zomile. Nangona zithambile eluswini, zinokukhupha ii-lipids kwaye zonyuse ukoma kolusu. Ke ngoko, xa usebenzisa ii-APG njenge-surfactant ephambili, kufuneka uqwalasele ukuba zisusa kangakanani ii-lipids zolusu. Izithambisi ezifanelekileyo zingongezwa kwifomyula ukuthintela ukubola. Ukuba zomile, umbhali ukwacinga ukuba zingasetyenziswa njenge-shampoo yokulawula ioyile, njengereferensi kuphela.
Ngamafutshane, isakhelo esiphambili somsebenzi womphezulu kwiifomyula zeshampoo sisalawulwa ngumsebenzi womphezulu we-anionic, owahlulwe ngokwahlukeneyo kwiinkqubo ezimbini eziphambili. Okokuqala, i-SLES idityaniswe nee-surfactants ze-zwitterionic okanye ii-surfactants ezingezizo ze-ionic ukunciphisa ukucaphuka kwayo. Le nkqubo yefomyula ine-foam etyebileyo, kulula ukuyijiyisa, kwaye ine-flocculation ekhawulezayo yee-cationic kunye nee-silicone oil conditioners kunye nexabiso eliphantsi, ngoko ke iseyinkqubo ye-surfactant ephambili kwimarike. Okwesibini, iityuwa ze-anionic amino acid zidityaniswe nee-surfactants ze-zwitterionic ukwandisa ukusebenza kwe-foam, okuyindawo eshushu kuphuhliso lwemarike. Olu hlobo lwemveliso yefomyula luthambile kwaye lune-foam etyebileyo. Nangona kunjalo, ngenxa yokuba ifomyula yenkqubo yetyuwa ye-amino acid iyagungqa kwaye ihla kancinci, iinwele zolu hlobo lwemveliso zomile. . Ii-APG ezingezizo ze-ionic ziye zaba yindlela entsha yophuhliso lwe-shampoo ngenxa yokuhambelana kwazo kakuhle nolusu. Ubunzima bokuphuhlisa olu hlobo lwefomyula kukufumana ii-surfactants ezisebenzayo ngakumbi ukwandisa ubutyebi be-foam yayo, kunye nokongeza ii-moisturizer ezifanelekileyo ukunciphisa impembelelo yee-APG entlokweni. Iimeko ezomileyo.
Ixesha lokuthumela: Disemba-21-2023